How to power a classic PC with a car battery
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karirovax Posted messages 3584 Status Membre -
karirovax Posted messages 3584 Status Membre -
Here’s the translation:
Alright, I’d like to install a PC in my car (yeah, I know I’m crazy lol) but I have 2 problems with that
1: Is there a power supply that could work like this (I suppose there is because laptops have this kind)
2: Is there a flat screen small enough, around 15 to 20 cm (I’m thinking about a car screen but I’m not sure if the resolution will be good enough under Windows)
And if you have links to any advice or equipment for sale that could help me, it would be nice to share that with me ;)
Thanks, see you soon
1: Is there a power supply that could work like this (I suppose there is because laptops have this kind)
2: Is there a flat screen small enough, around 15 to 20 cm (I’m thinking about a car screen but I’m not sure if the resolution will be good enough under Windows)
And if you have links to any advice or equipment for sale that could help me, it would be nice to share that with me ;)
Thanks, see you soon
51 réponses
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Suivant
Hello
I am an electronics engineer and I confirm that it is relatively easy to adapt a desktop PC to a car, although the interest is rather limited for that you need:
For a PC that consumes between 200 and 250 W:
- Filter and regulate the car's 12 V, which is between 11.5 and 14.3 V, using a series boost converter and definitely not a linear regulator like the 7812 ........ for a load calibrated at 10 A (graphics card, hard drive...)
- Generate the 5 V for USBs, hard drive controller... (2 A) using a linear regulator + ballast
- Generate 3 V for the microprocessor (20 A) using another series converter
- Generate the -12 V with an inverter (500 mA)
You should expect to spend around 200 euros on components for a decent solution (not made in China)
For the screen
A 12-200 V 100 W converter does the job, or choose a monitor that has an external 12 V power supply, and you’re good to go.
This makes it a rather disadvantageous solution compared to a laptop that you can find new or used with a 15 or 17 inches for a price comparable to that of a desktop modified for the car.
I would add that drawing 200 Watts from a 12 V battery is still 16 amperes continuously... which is 4 hours of autonomy on a 75 A/H battery! (diesel car) and quite a load on the alternator. Even with a less power-hungry PC (around 150 W), it’s not very eco-friendly at all!
I am an electronics engineer and I confirm that it is relatively easy to adapt a desktop PC to a car, although the interest is rather limited for that you need:
For a PC that consumes between 200 and 250 W:
- Filter and regulate the car's 12 V, which is between 11.5 and 14.3 V, using a series boost converter and definitely not a linear regulator like the 7812 ........ for a load calibrated at 10 A (graphics card, hard drive...)
- Generate the 5 V for USBs, hard drive controller... (2 A) using a linear regulator + ballast
- Generate 3 V for the microprocessor (20 A) using another series converter
- Generate the -12 V with an inverter (500 mA)
You should expect to spend around 200 euros on components for a decent solution (not made in China)
For the screen
A 12-200 V 100 W converter does the job, or choose a monitor that has an external 12 V power supply, and you’re good to go.
This makes it a rather disadvantageous solution compared to a laptop that you can find new or used with a 15 or 17 inches for a price comparable to that of a desktop modified for the car.
I would add that drawing 200 Watts from a 12 V battery is still 16 amperes continuously... which is 4 hours of autonomy on a 75 A/H battery! (diesel car) and quite a load on the alternator. Even with a less power-hungry PC (around 150 W), it’s not very eco-friendly at all!
I am an industrial computer engineer and I live in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso.
In response to the original question "how to power a standard PC with a car battery," I suggest:
1) option for the "wealthy": you replace the original power supply of your tower with a power supply of type: MPD-425C from Fabrimex http://www.fabrimex.ch/en/21_PowerSupplies/power_supplies.htm?pg=4&psg=15
this power supply supports from 10 to 30V DC input which allows you to work with either a car battery or better yet, 2 car batteries in series (to obtain 24 volts).
Don't forget to provide a battery charger that can recharge the (or the) battery(ies) and supply power to the PC.
As for the screen and accessories (ADSL modem, printer, scanner, answering machine/fax, etc...), the problem remains (partially) unresolved.
2) use an inverter (modifying it in the process).
For my part, I am using a "Mercury" 1500VA inverter (locally purchased for 150,000 F.CFA) from which I removed the internal batteries and placed an external car battery (75A). I added a small external charger to help recharge the battery because the original charger (of the inverter) takes several days to recharge the battery.
This system allows me to run for about 2 hours with the desk fan also powered by the inverter (not the air conditioning, though).
Of course, this solution also allows powering the accessories through the inverter.
I can tell you that in addition (when I’m not using my office), I have wired all the electronic parts of my living room to this same inverter (LCD TV, hi-fi system, multimedia PC, etc.), which allows me to watch a movie comfortably (about 2 hours).
... julfadi
In response to the original question "how to power a standard PC with a car battery," I suggest:
1) option for the "wealthy": you replace the original power supply of your tower with a power supply of type: MPD-425C from Fabrimex http://www.fabrimex.ch/en/21_PowerSupplies/power_supplies.htm?pg=4&psg=15
this power supply supports from 10 to 30V DC input which allows you to work with either a car battery or better yet, 2 car batteries in series (to obtain 24 volts).
Don't forget to provide a battery charger that can recharge the (or the) battery(ies) and supply power to the PC.
As for the screen and accessories (ADSL modem, printer, scanner, answering machine/fax, etc...), the problem remains (partially) unresolved.
2) use an inverter (modifying it in the process).
For my part, I am using a "Mercury" 1500VA inverter (locally purchased for 150,000 F.CFA) from which I removed the internal batteries and placed an external car battery (75A). I added a small external charger to help recharge the battery because the original charger (of the inverter) takes several days to recharge the battery.
This system allows me to run for about 2 hours with the desk fan also powered by the inverter (not the air conditioning, though).
Of course, this solution also allows powering the accessories through the inverter.
I can tell you that in addition (when I’m not using my office), I have wired all the electronic parts of my living room to this same inverter (LCD TV, hi-fi system, multimedia PC, etc.), which allows me to watch a movie comfortably (about 2 hours).
... julfadi
Hi hi
I am in the process of modifying an inverter to supply 220 V from a 12 V battery. So I removed the two internal batteries, then I added a fan on the side and connected the + and - of the batteries and the fan to the same terminal block, but at this point I'm stuck. I don't know if I should connect the 12 V from my truck's auxiliary battery to the original input of the inverter or if there is another way to do it.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE; I know it will be very helpful.
I am in the process of modifying an inverter to supply 220 V from a 12 V battery. So I removed the two internal batteries, then I added a fan on the side and connected the + and - of the batteries and the fan to the same terminal block, but at this point I'm stuck. I don't know if I should connect the 12 V from my truck's auxiliary battery to the original input of the inverter or if there is another way to do it.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE; I know it will be very helpful.
Thank you for this response because I also want to wire this type of system; of course I don't have the means, I would like to know if your response can be applied to inverters of 400 to 650 VA? If so, how to do it? Since it uses 12V 7AH batteries; I want to replace it with car batteries (1, 2 to 4) of 24V;
Hi
I believe it's possible; I even saw someone on YouTube who removed the internal battery that consumes between 4 to 6 hours and replaced it with a car battery, and he said it's possible to use a truck battery (I think 24 volts)
In any case, you can test it and with a multimeter or voltmeter you can manage, but it's better to let someone who is a professional handle this type of manipulation, and above all, avoid overloading the 220V output more than it can accept (if it accepts 1000 watts, then only go up to 900 watts; always try to leave a margin because once it's higher ==> inverter overheats ==> damages and disasters, so please never do things if you're not sure or experienced in the field!!)
Good luck
I believe it's possible; I even saw someone on YouTube who removed the internal battery that consumes between 4 to 6 hours and replaced it with a car battery, and he said it's possible to use a truck battery (I think 24 volts)
In any case, you can test it and with a multimeter or voltmeter you can manage, but it's better to let someone who is a professional handle this type of manipulation, and above all, avoid overloading the 220V output more than it can accept (if it accepts 1000 watts, then only go up to 900 watts; always try to leave a margin because once it's higher ==> inverter overheats ==> damages and disasters, so please never do things if you're not sure or experienced in the field!!)
Good luck
To use the computer with its screen in the car, buy a 12V-220V converter, available in stores.
Be careful about the power when purchasing.
Be careful about the power when purchasing.
The best option might be to use a 12 or 24 volt PC instead of tinkering... available at NAUTICOM.FR or ANTEOR.COM (search with Google for 12V PC) - Raymond
Hello everyone,
I live in Africa and I found the topic interesting, why?
Because power outages are common, and the autonomy of UPS allows us to calmly shut down our PC while waiting for 1 hour, 3 hours, or sometimes 24 hours for the power to return..
So I throw a challenge to manufacturers or amateur electronics enthusiasts who might be interested in this project:
Indeed, why convert 12V DC to 220V AC when in a tower or a desktop there is only 12V, 5V, and 3V, if I'm not mistaken..
It would be more sensible to create a 12V ATX power supply that converts 12V to 12, 5, and 3 Volts, which would require much less power and the autonomy would be increased.
For info, the autonomy of a UPS is 15 to 20 minutes, while a laptop battery lasts 2.5 hours..
As for the screen, some flat screens operate on 12V, so that’s not an issue.
That’s it
A call to enthusiasts, I think if the product existed it could be easily marketed in Africa or in developing countries where power outages are frequent..
I live in Africa and I found the topic interesting, why?
Because power outages are common, and the autonomy of UPS allows us to calmly shut down our PC while waiting for 1 hour, 3 hours, or sometimes 24 hours for the power to return..
So I throw a challenge to manufacturers or amateur electronics enthusiasts who might be interested in this project:
Indeed, why convert 12V DC to 220V AC when in a tower or a desktop there is only 12V, 5V, and 3V, if I'm not mistaken..
It would be more sensible to create a 12V ATX power supply that converts 12V to 12, 5, and 3 Volts, which would require much less power and the autonomy would be increased.
For info, the autonomy of a UPS is 15 to 20 minutes, while a laptop battery lasts 2.5 hours..
As for the screen, some flat screens operate on 12V, so that’s not an issue.
That’s it
A call to enthusiasts, I think if the product existed it could be easily marketed in Africa or in developing countries where power outages are frequent..
I'm going to tell you how!
You need to find a inverter with an internal battery, then extend the two cables from the battery to your car battery. After that, connect your computer with your screen and that's it. It's simple and it's straightforward, but it works.
I did that in my Clio and then I installed my app from home which is a SONY STR-DE 335 - 600w power and it works perfectly... So it's your turn to play :)
You need to find a inverter with an internal battery, then extend the two cables from the battery to your car battery. After that, connect your computer with your screen and that's it. It's simple and it's straightforward, but it works.
I did that in my Clio and then I installed my app from home which is a SONY STR-DE 335 - 600w power and it works perfectly... So it's your turn to play :)
It would be wiser to manufacture ATX power supplies powered by 12V from a battery and to replace the internal electronic circuit with a 12V to 5V and 3V converter; it would consume much less energy and increase autonomy.
That's not a bad idea :) But a PC power supply must be capable of providing up to 30A (and perhaps more for recent power supplies ...) and if we assume there is no energy loss, we have UpIp=UsIs (primary/secondary) Ip=(UsIs)/Up=(5*30)/12=12.5A
And that is only for the 5V.
It is certainly possible, I am not an electronics expert either, but that doesn’t mean it won’t consume a lot.
--
The urgent is done, the impossible is in progress,
For miracles, please allow for a delay ...
That's not a bad idea :) But a PC power supply must be capable of providing up to 30A (and perhaps more for recent power supplies ...) and if we assume there is no energy loss, we have UpIp=UsIs (primary/secondary) Ip=(UsIs)/Up=(5*30)/12=12.5A
And that is only for the 5V.
It is certainly possible, I am not an electronics expert either, but that doesn’t mean it won’t consume a lot.
--
The urgent is done, the impossible is in progress,
For miracles, please allow for a delay ...
Thank you for your response Yoan,
but I'm talking about a car battery, for example 25A/H, and it's not because it's marked on the power supply as 30A that it provides that, can you imagine the size of the wires in your tower??
I think your calculations are poorly estimated... and I've heard that this has already been done here in Congo but I don't have the contact..
but I'm talking about a car battery, for example 25A/H, and it's not because it's marked on the power supply as 30A that it provides that, can you imagine the size of the wires in your tower??
I think your calculations are poorly estimated... and I've heard that this has already been done here in Congo but I don't have the contact..
Well... I briefly looked into the subject with interest, since I live on a boat and I'm taking advantage of its restoration to centralize navigation and comfort elements (movies, music...) on the PC. It should be noted that at sea, it’s worthwhile to have chosen various devices for their ease of repair, which is less obvious for a laptop.
So I've been working on the topic of "how to power a desktop PC on battery" for a while now.
Indeed, as you said, just because it says 30A or 450W doesn’t mean it consumes that!
My power supply at 220V is 450 Watts and my ammeter at the back of the PC measures only 0.45A, which gives about 100 Watts.
My screen is a Bluesky 15" with an external power supply at 220V/12V which should allow me to connect it directly to the batteries (but I’m thinking of still going through a voltage regulator to avoid spikes at 14V during battery charging).
I thought about using an inverter for the tower, but obviously, converting from 12V to 220V and then back to 12V will certainly lead to losses!
Don't think that an inverter has a 100% efficiency (proof is, it heats up, so power is lost!).
I once saw the consumption plate of a laptop "Acer" that indicated 9A at 19V DC.
I don't know if all laptops are as power-hungry, and I’m well aware that adapting a desktop PC to 12V would require a bit more than a laptop... It remains to weigh our interests and consider all the pros and cons.
So I've been working on the topic of "how to power a desktop PC on battery" for a while now.
Indeed, as you said, just because it says 30A or 450W doesn’t mean it consumes that!
My power supply at 220V is 450 Watts and my ammeter at the back of the PC measures only 0.45A, which gives about 100 Watts.
My screen is a Bluesky 15" with an external power supply at 220V/12V which should allow me to connect it directly to the batteries (but I’m thinking of still going through a voltage regulator to avoid spikes at 14V during battery charging).
I thought about using an inverter for the tower, but obviously, converting from 12V to 220V and then back to 12V will certainly lead to losses!
Don't think that an inverter has a 100% efficiency (proof is, it heats up, so power is lost!).
I once saw the consumption plate of a laptop "Acer" that indicated 9A at 19V DC.
I don't know if all laptops are as power-hungry, and I’m well aware that adapting a desktop PC to 12V would require a bit more than a laptop... It remains to weigh our interests and consider all the pros and cons.
Well, I want to clarify one thing: "and my ammeter on the back of the PC measures 0.45A floating." So, that was measured between the mains and the power supply, right? Of course...
But if you were measuring in the PC itself, where the 5V comes out, you would connect your ammeter in series with...
There you would see that you wouldn't get 450mA ;)
U = R x I
R is constant in this case, SO: if U decreases, I increases, and that's what the PC power supply does... it decreases the voltage, and we can have a greater intensity output...
but in the case of the battery
hmm, I don't think there's much to question; it will consume a lot :)
And yes, just because a power supply says 450 W doesn't mean it will consume that much...
And I remind you that when a power supply says 30 A, like on the 5V output, that is what the power supply can give... if you connect a circuit on 5V that demands more than 30 A, your power supply will heat up...
That's all my opinion on the subject, and I think you could maybe make a switching power supply on battery: battery voltage 12V and output voltage of the switcher 5V, 3.3V, 12V, etc. A switching power supply can be done in a simple way; there are tons of schematics on the internet...
cyb...
But if you were measuring in the PC itself, where the 5V comes out, you would connect your ammeter in series with...
There you would see that you wouldn't get 450mA ;)
U = R x I
R is constant in this case, SO: if U decreases, I increases, and that's what the PC power supply does... it decreases the voltage, and we can have a greater intensity output...
but in the case of the battery
hmm, I don't think there's much to question; it will consume a lot :)
And yes, just because a power supply says 450 W doesn't mean it will consume that much...
And I remind you that when a power supply says 30 A, like on the 5V output, that is what the power supply can give... if you connect a circuit on 5V that demands more than 30 A, your power supply will heat up...
That's all my opinion on the subject, and I think you could maybe make a switching power supply on battery: battery voltage 12V and output voltage of the switcher 5V, 3.3V, 12V, etc. A switching power supply can be done in a simple way; there are tons of schematics on the internet...
cyb...
I know that there are converters (12/24V --> 220V) that can produce up to 2000W of power! What I don't know is the difference between sinusoidal current and ordinary current!
Here is the converter:
[URL=https://imageshack.com/][IMG]http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/143/202015hy3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Here is the converter:
[URL=https://imageshack.com/][IMG]http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/143/202015hy3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Hello everyone,
I am a truck driver recently, so I have a truck with a 24-volt 300Ah system.
My question is as follows:
I bought a classic PC power supply that runs on 12 volts (not 220V) and I would like to connect it to a 12-volt traction battery.
But I want to be able to charge my 12-volt battery using the 24 volts available in my truck. I was thinking of using a 24v / 12v 40A converter to charge my 12v battery.
Does my project hold up?
For your information, my PC power supply has a maximum of 320 watts, so 320w divided by 12 volts = 26.6 amperes. My power supply will therefore consume a maximum of 26 amperes/hour from my 12-volt battery.
I intend to buy a 180Ah 12-volt traction battery that I want to recharge with a 24v / 12v 40A converter.
My autonomy without recharging will therefore be 180Ah divided by 26Amperes = 6.9 hours.... let's say 5 hours to avoid deep discharging the battery.
What do you think of this project? If any electronics expert is reading this, I would like to get their opinion.... especially on charging the battery with just a simple converter.
Thanks in advance.
I am a truck driver recently, so I have a truck with a 24-volt 300Ah system.
My question is as follows:
I bought a classic PC power supply that runs on 12 volts (not 220V) and I would like to connect it to a 12-volt traction battery.
But I want to be able to charge my 12-volt battery using the 24 volts available in my truck. I was thinking of using a 24v / 12v 40A converter to charge my 12v battery.
Does my project hold up?
For your information, my PC power supply has a maximum of 320 watts, so 320w divided by 12 volts = 26.6 amperes. My power supply will therefore consume a maximum of 26 amperes/hour from my 12-volt battery.
I intend to buy a 180Ah 12-volt traction battery that I want to recharge with a 24v / 12v 40A converter.
My autonomy without recharging will therefore be 180Ah divided by 26Amperes = 6.9 hours.... let's say 5 hours to avoid deep discharging the battery.
What do you think of this project? If any electronics expert is reading this, I would like to get their opinion.... especially on charging the battery with just a simple converter.
Thanks in advance.
Hello, I wanted to know if it was possible to power an external hard drive (which is normally plugged into the mains with a 12 V 1.5 A transformer) from the car's cigarette lighter.
Actually, it's to have a large amount of music (unlike a small USB stick).
I have a cigarette lighter cable that can fit the power input of the hard drive. But what will be the current output from the cigarette lighter?
Am I at risk of burning out my hard drive? I don't dare to try plugging it in. WILL IT WORK?
Thank you for answering.
Actually, it's to have a large amount of music (unlike a small USB stick).
I have a cigarette lighter cable that can fit the power input of the hard drive. But what will be the current output from the cigarette lighter?
Am I at risk of burning out my hard drive? I don't dare to try plugging it in. WILL IT WORK?
Thank you for answering.
Hello, I am facing exactly the same issue right now. I work for a humanitarian association.
I need to provide electricity using solar panels to a school in Cambodia. In this school, there will be computers and a projector among other things (which I need to find).
I am encountering the same problem; I produce DC with my panels, while the equipment I find on the market is generally powered by AC with a rectifier at the input.
I would therefore like to avoid these unnecessary transformations, as energy is precious there.
My issue arises for:
- screens
- CPU units
- the projector.
Isn't it dangerous to bypass the power supplies provided with the equipment?
Among the computers, there will be laptops, and we know that charging lithium-ion batteries is a delicate science and not fully mastered; the charge regulator's electronic system may be susceptible and react poorly to variable input voltage, right?
Any information, even the most basic, is welcome.
Thank you
Clément
I need to provide electricity using solar panels to a school in Cambodia. In this school, there will be computers and a projector among other things (which I need to find).
I am encountering the same problem; I produce DC with my panels, while the equipment I find on the market is generally powered by AC with a rectifier at the input.
I would therefore like to avoid these unnecessary transformations, as energy is precious there.
My issue arises for:
- screens
- CPU units
- the projector.
Isn't it dangerous to bypass the power supplies provided with the equipment?
Among the computers, there will be laptops, and we know that charging lithium-ion batteries is a delicate science and not fully mastered; the charge regulator's electronic system may be susceptible and react poorly to variable input voltage, right?
Any information, even the most basic, is welcome.
Thank you
Clément
Hello everyone!
I am a truck driver, I've installed a PC, a tower, a desktop computer in my truck and it works like a charm!
Here’s my setup:
in the truck: 24 volts direct current
1 converter 24v / 12v 40 amps. 99€
1 traction battery of 12 volts / 120 ah lead-acid, waterproof 260€
1 PC power supply 300 watts at 12 volts (no 220v input but 12 volts) I found it on a German site (150€)
LCD TNT TV 15 inches 220v or 12v with VGA input.
My 12v battery is charged when the engine is running, I have 3 hours of autonomy when the engine is off.
And everything works very well! And I have no risk of discharging the truck batteries...
If anyone wants information, website addresses, etc.. feel free to ask!
bye, jeremy.
I am a truck driver, I've installed a PC, a tower, a desktop computer in my truck and it works like a charm!
Here’s my setup:
in the truck: 24 volts direct current
1 converter 24v / 12v 40 amps. 99€
1 traction battery of 12 volts / 120 ah lead-acid, waterproof 260€
1 PC power supply 300 watts at 12 volts (no 220v input but 12 volts) I found it on a German site (150€)
LCD TNT TV 15 inches 220v or 12v with VGA input.
My 12v battery is charged when the engine is running, I have 3 hours of autonomy when the engine is off.
And everything works very well! And I have no risk of discharging the truck batteries...
If anyone wants information, website addresses, etc.. feel free to ask!
bye, jeremy.
Hi
1 300-watt power supply in 12 volts (no 220V input but 12 volts) I found it on a German site (150€)
I would like to know on which site you found a 12V power supply and if there are more powerful ones?
I am using solar power and I don't want 220V at home
but for some equipment it's a hassle anyway thanks a lot in advance. flo
1 300-watt power supply in 12 volts (no 220V input but 12 volts) I found it on a German site (150€)
I would like to know on which site you found a 12V power supply and if there are more powerful ones?
I am using solar power and I don't want 220V at home
but for some equipment it's a hassle anyway thanks a lot in advance. flo
Beware of the 12V to 220V converter!!
I strongly recommend those that have a smoother curve compared to those without a curve (spiking up and down).
Let me explain = since you can vary power in Watts linearly or non-linearly! (linear = power rises and falls while maintaining a smooth curve).
--------> This system is called: SINUS
HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH OTHER CONVERTERS THAT OFFER MODIFIED SINUS, AND KNOW THAT SOME OF YOUR DEVICES DO NOT HANDLE THIS TYPE OF CURRENT VERY WELL (LAPTOPS, PDAs...)
--> Here’s a link: http://cgi.ebay.fr/convertisseur-12-220-350-watt-pur-sinus_W0QQitemZ370051253467QQihZ024QQcategoryZ1256QQcmdZViewItem
I strongly recommend those that have a smoother curve compared to those without a curve (spiking up and down).
Let me explain = since you can vary power in Watts linearly or non-linearly! (linear = power rises and falls while maintaining a smooth curve).
--------> This system is called: SINUS
HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH OTHER CONVERTERS THAT OFFER MODIFIED SINUS, AND KNOW THAT SOME OF YOUR DEVICES DO NOT HANDLE THIS TYPE OF CURRENT VERY WELL (LAPTOPS, PDAs...)
--> Here’s a link: http://cgi.ebay.fr/convertisseur-12-220-350-watt-pur-sinus_W0QQitemZ370051253467QQihZ024QQcategoryZ1256QQcmdZViewItem
I really enjoyed the topic about PC power supplies.
My concern is to know how to calculate the autonomy of a UPS.
My concern is to know how to calculate the autonomy of a UPS.
Hello Kton
Just a little post to see if you are still on the forum. Your input has been a great help to me, but I still have a few issues to resolve to achieve my goals.
If you are around and have a few precious minutes to spare, I'll tell you more.
Hope to see you soon.
Just a little post to see if you are still on the forum. Your input has been a great help to me, but I still have a few issues to resolve to achieve my goals.
If you are around and have a few precious minutes to spare, I'll tell you more.
Hope to see you soon.
Go to the following link https://doumai.pagesperso-orange.fr/Hacheur_TL494_1/Hacheur_TL494.htm
on this site you can make a 12V tower work by modifying the PC power supply.
on this site you can make a 12V tower work by modifying the PC power supply.
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Suivant
I’m writing to you because you really seem to know about electronics. As part of an internship, my supervisor asked me to conduct a feasibility study on replacing the mains power with a portable battery in an electronic system. I can't find anything online (or rather I can't seem to do a good precise search), so if you could tell me what to pay attention to or recommend a site, it would definitely help me in my research.
Looking forward to your reply,
Alexandre N.
I have approximately the same problem, did you find a solution?
please let me know!
;-)