How to digitize my vinyl records
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jncolnel
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Hello,
I have a collection of old vinyl records that I don't want to give up. I would like someone to explain to me how to proceed and what equipment I need to transfer them to my hard drive so that I can burn them later.
I have a PC running Windows 98 with a Nero5 CD burner.
I don't know much, so the explanations need to be simple and accessible for a non-specialist.
Thank you in advance.
JN Colnel
I have a collection of old vinyl records that I don't want to give up. I would like someone to explain to me how to proceed and what equipment I need to transfer them to my hard drive so that I can burn them later.
I have a PC running Windows 98 with a Nero5 CD burner.
I don't know much, so the explanations need to be simple and accessible for a non-specialist.
Thank you in advance.
JN Colnel
29 réponses
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Transferring vinyl records to a computer is quite simple:
First, you need to connect the vinyl turntable (if pre-amplified) or the amplifier of the hi-fi system to the sound card of the PC to the input called "in".
Next, you need software capable of recording the audio tracks from the vinyl into mp3 or wav tracks. For my part, I use Audio Creator; it is easy to use, but you can find similar software that allows you to perform this operation at www.telecharger.com.
The only issue is that often the software does not recognize the silence on the vinyl, so if you play the vinyl record and start recording, for example, if there are 4 songs on side A of the record, the software will only create 1 audio track instead of 4. To remedy this problem, you just need to stop the recording at the end of each song played on the record (it's long and requires listening to the entire vinyl). This process is the same for digitizing a tape onto a CD.
Good luck!
First, you need to connect the vinyl turntable (if pre-amplified) or the amplifier of the hi-fi system to the sound card of the PC to the input called "in".
Next, you need software capable of recording the audio tracks from the vinyl into mp3 or wav tracks. For my part, I use Audio Creator; it is easy to use, but you can find similar software that allows you to perform this operation at www.telecharger.com.
The only issue is that often the software does not recognize the silence on the vinyl, so if you play the vinyl record and start recording, for example, if there are 4 songs on side A of the record, the software will only create 1 audio track instead of 4. To remedy this problem, you just need to stop the recording at the end of each song played on the record (it's long and requires listening to the entire vinyl). This process is the same for digitizing a tape onto a CD.
Good luck!
Hello,
To digitize vinyl records in a simple and cost-effective way, you can use the EasyCap.
This small, simple, and affordable device allows you to connect your turntable or amplifier to your computer.
I use it myself almost every day.
Very easy to use and not expensive, you can find it on this site at a very good price.
link removed Moderation CCM (detected as malicious)
Good luck.
To digitize vinyl records in a simple and cost-effective way, you can use the EasyCap.
This small, simple, and affordable device allows you to connect your turntable or amplifier to your computer.
I use it myself almost every day.
Very easy to use and not expensive, you can find it on this site at a very good price.
link removed Moderation CCM (detected as malicious)
Good luck.
Hello Bleasy
A vinyl turntable equipped with a magnetic cartridge requires the use of an RIAA preamp placed between the turntable output and your easycap converter input, as the signal directly from the cartridge is too weak. Small RIAA preamps are available commercially for around €20. Be careful: when connecting the cable from the turntable, don't forget the ground wire. Your PC must also have specific software to be able to record audio. If you have an amplifier with a phono input, you can use it as a preamp; in this case, connect a RCA cable to the "Tape" output of the amplifier and connect the other end to the easycap plug.
For audio software, some are available for free download.
Good luck.
Bauson
A vinyl turntable equipped with a magnetic cartridge requires the use of an RIAA preamp placed between the turntable output and your easycap converter input, as the signal directly from the cartridge is too weak. Small RIAA preamps are available commercially for around €20. Be careful: when connecting the cable from the turntable, don't forget the ground wire. Your PC must also have specific software to be able to record audio. If you have an amplifier with a phono input, you can use it as a preamp; in this case, connect a RCA cable to the "Tape" output of the amplifier and connect the other end to the easycap plug.
For audio software, some are available for free download.
Good luck.
Bauson
All of this is too complicated! I use Audacity (free). I take my old stereo, connect the turntable to the right place, and look for a "post preamp output." There isn't one shown, but I take the "tape REC" output and connect it to the "line" (blue) input of my sound card. I adjust the input level with the Windows mixer, and that's it. Nothing to buy...just old, inexpensive stuff!
Hello
Often, when possible, it is enough to connect the chassis of the plate to that of the PC (tower) with a wire.
Often, when possible, it is enough to connect the chassis of the plate to that of the PC (tower) with a wire.
Hello. To digitize the vinyl record on the computer, I use a small software called RIP VINYL, which is very easy to use, and Cool Edit Pro to enhance the quality. (To ensure top quality, during recording I generously place rubbing alcohol in front of the diamond tip). For the cassette player, do not connect it to a hi-fi amplifier. Connect the OUT output directly to the microphone input of your sound card on your PC.
You can use the software Autograbber, it records what comes out of the sound card and manages the silences to create tracks, and it's free.
https://www.commentcamarche.net/telecharger/audio-musique/4021-audiograbber/
https://www.commentcamarche.net/telecharger/audio-musique/4021-audiograbber/
Hi,
just to clarify as well, for those who don't know, the existence of Ion turntables with a USB port that you can plug directly into a PC or Mac... very convenient for those who don't already have turntables and just want to digitize a collection of vinyl records. Plus, they're not very expensive (around 150 euros, I believe).
http://www.vinyland.com
just to clarify as well, for those who don't know, the existence of Ion turntables with a USB port that you can plug directly into a PC or Mac... very convenient for those who don't already have turntables and just want to digitize a collection of vinyl records. Plus, they're not very expensive (around 150 euros, I believe).
http://www.vinyland.com
Hello,
I have been restoring vinyl records for quite some time now. To do this, I use the semi-professional software AudioCleanic version 2007. This software is great for creating clean edits: splitting tracks with numbering, reducing background noise, equalization, and compression. It also allows for very fine level adjustments. Moreover, its price is not very high: around €60!
As for burning, it’s a piece of cake! (burning time for a 1-hour CD: about 7 minutes.)
The results (provided you have a good sound card and a good turntable) are amazing.
The program is very stable and easy to use.
I have been restoring vinyl records for quite some time now. To do this, I use the semi-professional software AudioCleanic version 2007. This software is great for creating clean edits: splitting tracks with numbering, reducing background noise, equalization, and compression. It also allows for very fine level adjustments. Moreover, its price is not very high: around €60!
As for burning, it’s a piece of cake! (burning time for a 1-hour CD: about 7 minutes.)
The results (provided you have a good sound card and a good turntable) are amazing.
The program is very stable and easy to use.
Hello,
For my daughter's wedding next year (I'm planning ahead), I have a good collection of 33 and 45 RPM records from the 50s, 60s, and 70s that I would like to digitize using a computer. Unfortunately, I no longer have a turntable. I have a Kora Explorer amplifier, an old Creative Sound Blaster ZS sound card, and a Core2 Duo with 4 GB of RAM. Is my sound card suitable for recording? If not, which sound card should I choose? What turntable should I look for? I assume it needs an input for the amplifier and an output to connect to the sound card or directly to the computer's USB port? Is the AudioCleanic software easy to use for a beginner?
Thank you for your advice.
For my daughter's wedding next year (I'm planning ahead), I have a good collection of 33 and 45 RPM records from the 50s, 60s, and 70s that I would like to digitize using a computer. Unfortunately, I no longer have a turntable. I have a Kora Explorer amplifier, an old Creative Sound Blaster ZS sound card, and a Core2 Duo with 4 GB of RAM. Is my sound card suitable for recording? If not, which sound card should I choose? What turntable should I look for? I assume it needs an input for the amplifier and an output to connect to the sound card or directly to the computer's USB port? Is the AudioCleanic software easy to use for a beginner?
Thank you for your advice.
Hello,
Your question warrants several answers:
1) The required specifications for using the Audio Cleanic software are:
- Windows 2000 or XP operating system
- Minimum 500 MHZ processor
- 16-bit sound card
- Minimum resolution 1024 x 768 with 16-bit High Colour.
- CD-ROM drive
2) There are excellent turntables that can be purchased second-hand for a reasonable price (check at Cash Converters or on the E-Bay website).
- Ideally, they should have direct drive (direct motor-plate connection) and quartz-controlled speed.
- A good cartridge (Shure or equivalent)
3) You need to go through a RIAA preamp (included with the software)
4) Using a small mixing table is ideal to adjust the input volume, but you can also make this adjustment via the PC's control panel.
5) Using the Audio Cleanic software is very easy, but you still need to work with it a bit to grasp all the functions offered (fortunately, the Audio Cleanic software includes a very detailed user manual)
6) Generally, PC sound cards are equipped with 3.5 mm stereo jack connections: one for input, the other for output to an amplifier or headphones for monitoring.
7) There are also turntables equipped with a USB output, but I much prefer a good turntable as described above.
I hope these explanations are helpful and I remain at your disposal for any further questions.
Jean Degryse
Your question warrants several answers:
1) The required specifications for using the Audio Cleanic software are:
- Windows 2000 or XP operating system
- Minimum 500 MHZ processor
- 16-bit sound card
- Minimum resolution 1024 x 768 with 16-bit High Colour.
- CD-ROM drive
2) There are excellent turntables that can be purchased second-hand for a reasonable price (check at Cash Converters or on the E-Bay website).
- Ideally, they should have direct drive (direct motor-plate connection) and quartz-controlled speed.
- A good cartridge (Shure or equivalent)
3) You need to go through a RIAA preamp (included with the software)
4) Using a small mixing table is ideal to adjust the input volume, but you can also make this adjustment via the PC's control panel.
5) Using the Audio Cleanic software is very easy, but you still need to work with it a bit to grasp all the functions offered (fortunately, the Audio Cleanic software includes a very detailed user manual)
6) Generally, PC sound cards are equipped with 3.5 mm stereo jack connections: one for input, the other for output to an amplifier or headphones for monitoring.
7) There are also turntables equipped with a USB output, but I much prefer a good turntable as described above.
I hope these explanations are helpful and I remain at your disposal for any further questions.
Jean Degryse
Good evening Beauson
Thank you for your response, I also have a very nice vinyl collection and a powerful PC with a USB-equipped turntable (purchased in England) and I own audiocleanic 2004 magix software.
My problem is that when I connect my USB turntable with audiocleanic software it doesn't work. However, audacity software works but is less complete (for MP3s).
Can you help me
Thank you
Missekat
Thank you for your response, I also have a very nice vinyl collection and a powerful PC with a USB-equipped turntable (purchased in England) and I own audiocleanic 2004 magix software.
My problem is that when I connect my USB turntable with audiocleanic software it doesn't work. However, audacity software works but is less complete (for MP3s).
Can you help me
Thank you
Missekat
Hello Missekat21
In response to your question regarding a USB connection, I suggest you try this: when you have opened the Audio Cleanic program and activated the recording and turned on your turntable, check the "Sound card" menu (which allows you to select a sound card). If that doesn't work, I recommend contacting the manufacturer's online support (www.magix.com). After filling out the questionnaire provided and leaving your contact details (email), you will receive a fairly quick response from them.
It would be surprising if a USB turntable cannot be used, but since I haven't encountered the issue, it is difficult for me to give you a precise answer.
Good luck
In response to your question regarding a USB connection, I suggest you try this: when you have opened the Audio Cleanic program and activated the recording and turned on your turntable, check the "Sound card" menu (which allows you to select a sound card). If that doesn't work, I recommend contacting the manufacturer's online support (www.magix.com). After filling out the questionnaire provided and leaving your contact details (email), you will receive a fairly quick response from them.
It would be surprising if a USB turntable cannot be used, but since I haven't encountered the issue, it is difficult for me to give you a precise answer.
Good luck
Hi!
For cutting the digitized vinyl track, I recommend the legendary Audacity software, free and excellent =)
For cutting the digitized vinyl track, I recommend the legendary Audacity software, free and excellent =)
Thank you, but if this message is addressed to me, I would like to point out that the Magix Audio Cleanic software installed on my PC fully satisfies me.
I have been using it for several years now and assert that it is a program of remarkable stability and efficiency, although it is limited to two tracks.
But it undeniably offers excellent value for money. As a professional in audio, I could have also opted for a program like Protools from Digesign, but it is much more expensive and primarily aimed at musicians as well as recording studios. For multi-track work, you can also do it using Magix Video Deluxe, which allows for remarkable video editing, but also audio in 16 tracks with the same quality as its little brother Magix Audio.
Let it be known...
I have been using it for several years now and assert that it is a program of remarkable stability and efficiency, although it is limited to two tracks.
But it undeniably offers excellent value for money. As a professional in audio, I could have also opted for a program like Protools from Digesign, but it is much more expensive and primarily aimed at musicians as well as recording studios. For multi-track work, you can also do it using Magix Video Deluxe, which allows for remarkable video editing, but also audio in 16 tracks with the same quality as its little brother Magix Audio.
Let it be known...
http://www.vinylrecord.fr does this for 10 euros per record. I think it's worth it if you have some good records that you don't want to lose and especially want to listen to more easily, like in the car.
10 euros is more expensive than the vinyl itself... Clearly outrageous... To do this at a lower cost, you need patience and time. Otherwise, at this price, you might as well buy everything on iTunes...
2 techniques: with or without a computer:
http://www.darty.com/dossier/audio_hifi/comment_numeriser_ses_vinlyles_et_ses_cassettes_audio.html
USB turntables via a computer (for example, I'm not necessarily advocating buying this from Darty... shop around if needed)
http://www.darty.com/nav/extra/comparator?codics=2808668:2808650:3452395:2740052:3170519:2552353
to do it directly onto a USB key:
http://www.darty.com/nav/achat/hifi_video/elements_separes/platine_disque/ion_proflash.html
2 techniques: with or without a computer:
http://www.darty.com/dossier/audio_hifi/comment_numeriser_ses_vinlyles_et_ses_cassettes_audio.html
USB turntables via a computer (for example, I'm not necessarily advocating buying this from Darty... shop around if needed)
http://www.darty.com/nav/extra/comparator?codics=2808668:2808650:3452395:2740052:3170519:2552353
to do it directly onto a USB key:
http://www.darty.com/nav/achat/hifi_video/elements_separes/platine_disque/ion_proflash.html
Hello Birdyconnected
The price of €10 may seem prohibitive even though it is within the average cost of transferring a vinyl record to a CD. Let's not forget that the person doing the work needs to be paid, if only to cover their equipment costs and energy used. Additionally, it is usually a freelancer who must bear the cost of their professional expenses.
That said, there are several options: 1. simple transfer without a sleeve - 2. transfer with corrections and noise reduction, still without a sleeve, and finally all the previously mentioned operations plus the creation of a cover made after scanning the original sleeve (with an A3 scanner that costs over €500!). In terms of time needed, personally, it takes me between two and three hours per CD completed (for the deluxe version, obviously). But if you have extremely rare records that are not commercially available on CD, the operation is worthwhile as you then have a unique copy. Now, if you are able to do it yourself, that's all gain, although even in that case it is not completely free, especially given the price of inkjet printer cartridges.
And finally, you should know that the technical equipment used by specialized studios is not affordable for everyone: a Mac dedicated to audio professionals costs around €3000. The Digidesign sound card (plus its Protools software) is sold for around €600. And lastly, let's not forget the professional turntables like the EMT (which are mostly only found second-hand) whose average value is between €2500 and €5000.
Acknowledge that you need to digitize a lot of records to recoup all that...
Jean
The price of €10 may seem prohibitive even though it is within the average cost of transferring a vinyl record to a CD. Let's not forget that the person doing the work needs to be paid, if only to cover their equipment costs and energy used. Additionally, it is usually a freelancer who must bear the cost of their professional expenses.
That said, there are several options: 1. simple transfer without a sleeve - 2. transfer with corrections and noise reduction, still without a sleeve, and finally all the previously mentioned operations plus the creation of a cover made after scanning the original sleeve (with an A3 scanner that costs over €500!). In terms of time needed, personally, it takes me between two and three hours per CD completed (for the deluxe version, obviously). But if you have extremely rare records that are not commercially available on CD, the operation is worthwhile as you then have a unique copy. Now, if you are able to do it yourself, that's all gain, although even in that case it is not completely free, especially given the price of inkjet printer cartridges.
And finally, you should know that the technical equipment used by specialized studios is not affordable for everyone: a Mac dedicated to audio professionals costs around €3000. The Digidesign sound card (plus its Protools software) is sold for around €600. And lastly, let's not forget the professional turntables like the EMT (which are mostly only found second-hand) whose average value is between €2500 and €5000.
Acknowledge that you need to digitize a lot of records to recoup all that...
Jean
The USB part is not responsible, because if I connect the turntable to my audio amplifier, I have exactly the same phenomenon. In fact, I don’t even know if another turntable would not exhibit the same defect. I suggest you listen to a few significant seconds of this noise by downloading it at this address:
http://9giga.sfr.fr/n/50-2/share/LNK38014b5d7f13b63a4/
http://9giga.sfr.fr/n/50-2/share/LNK38014b5d7f13b63a4/
Hello,
For this fairly long job that requires a relatively costly investment, an association can take care of it:
http://www.transfertvideonet.net
Best regards
For this fairly long job that requires a relatively costly investment, an association can take care of it:
http://www.transfertvideonet.net
Best regards
I found what I was looking for, a USB adapter for digitizing. I capture the sound through a RIAA preamp, and I have a 5M USB extension to go to the PC. I use Cool Edit for recording and adding "silence" between each track, and then Visual MP3 Splitter which makes it very easy to automatically split the tracks.
The only downside with vinyl recordings is that for classical music, I still have an annoying background noise, -40dB, which is impossible to eliminate. This noise comes from the cartridge, because when I remove it, there is no more noise. During piani, the sound level is at -30dB, so the noise caused by the cartridge is quite audible. This problem is obviously negligible for recordings where the level is sufficient, as the noise is masked.
The only downside with vinyl recordings is that for classical music, I still have an annoying background noise, -40dB, which is impossible to eliminate. This noise comes from the cartridge, because when I remove it, there is no more noise. During piani, the sound level is at -30dB, so the noise caused by the cartridge is quite audible. This problem is obviously negligible for recordings where the level is sufficient, as the noise is masked.
Hello Lekram,
What you mention about the background noise generated by the cartridge when playing classical music is, let's say, "quite common." This is especially frequent during soft passages. It is important, to limit this inconvenience, to properly adjust the weight of the cartridge. One must obviously use a good quality cartridge and check the wear of the needle. It should be noted that the pressing quality of vinyl records is very uneven, even in classical music. I learned, in this regard, that radio stations demanded good pressings (those made when the matrix is new). And then it's a lottery: either the pressing is good or it isn't. Be cautious also of static electricity which also generates background noise. Cleaning the vinyl records under good conditions also limits the drawbacks. In a nutshell, the results obtained are the result of a series of things that industry professionals apply by implementing a whole procedure that they keep secret and that amateurs like us obviously do not have, sometimes very costly but nevertheless essential tools in order to achieve optimal results.
Good luck anyway.
Lebauson
What you mention about the background noise generated by the cartridge when playing classical music is, let's say, "quite common." This is especially frequent during soft passages. It is important, to limit this inconvenience, to properly adjust the weight of the cartridge. One must obviously use a good quality cartridge and check the wear of the needle. It should be noted that the pressing quality of vinyl records is very uneven, even in classical music. I learned, in this regard, that radio stations demanded good pressings (those made when the matrix is new). And then it's a lottery: either the pressing is good or it isn't. Be cautious also of static electricity which also generates background noise. Cleaning the vinyl records under good conditions also limits the drawbacks. In a nutshell, the results obtained are the result of a series of things that industry professionals apply by implementing a whole procedure that they keep secret and that amateurs like us obviously do not have, sometimes very costly but nevertheless essential tools in order to achieve optimal results.
Good luck anyway.
Lebauson
The platter is connected to the ground, the noise comes from the cartridge when it is not in operation.
I am not talking about connecting a device to ground, but about connecting them to each other (equipotential).
In fact, it is connected to the amplifier (the PC is 5 meters away), but I repeat, as soon as the cartridge is removed, there is no more noise, it is indeed the cartridge that is responsible for this background noise, which is present even when the cartridge is not in contact with the disc. I will try to connect it to the PC via the ground of the USB plug, but I don't think it will change much.
I disassembled the turntable, checked the soldering of the cartridge wires, and took the opportunity to change the connection cable for a new one with gold-plated RCA connectors. The turntable is not a USB turntable; it is connected to an RIAA preamp through a standard coax/RCA connection, and the output of the preamp is connected in the same way to a USB adapter that digitizes. I have a very good output level because the adapter was designed to work directly connected to the turntable, so I lower the level on the PC. I prefer to have RIAA correction at the source rather than doing it later with Audacity.
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Thank you for your response. It's clear and within my reach. I will therefore follow your advice.
jnc
can the connection between the cassette player and the computer be made through the headphone output?
Thank you.
Ciao.
Thank you.