Adjusting CPU Cooler Fan for i7 10700
Beardman62 -
Hello,
I would like your advice :)
I just acquired a second-hand Acer ConceptD with an i7 10700
(the case already doesn't seem spacious to me, and I imagine that this type of processor "heats up")
But while using it, I realize that the CPU temperature fluctuates around 80°C
I was told to change the CPU cooler (which I understand)
but I feel like it's not just the cooler that's to blame
for example, I've been using it for a few hours (between 30 and 40% of the CPU capacity) and I'm oscillating between 80 and 85°C
the same this afternoon, with 100% usage for several long minutes, it stabilized at 80/81°C
so I think the fan speed plays a big role (perhaps depending on the processor usage)
I'm wondering if it's possible to adjust the fan speed (knowing that SpeedFan doesn't work)
Thank you :)
7 answers
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vieu bison boiteu Posted messages 44334 Registration date Status Contributor Last intervention Ambassadeur 3 591
Hello Beardman626
SpeedFan is not used to adjust the fan speed.
How does SpeedFan work?
With the "Chart" tab on the interface, SpeedFan allows you to indicate and control in real-time the temperature, voltage, and speed of the fans. But for that, you need to be equipped with the appropriate integrated circuits on your motherboard.
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How to adjust the speed of PC fans?
Press F2 during startup to enter the BIOS setup. Select Cooling. The fan settings are listed in the CPU Fan Header panel. Press F10 to exit the BIOS setup.
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How to increase the speed of your heatsink fan?
Using software
- Fan Control: Software that allows you to adjust and control the speed of the fans.
- SpeedFan: a bit older but allows you to visualize temperatures and manage the speed of the fans. ...
- Libre Hardware Monitor: indicates CPU and GPU temperatures and fan rotation speed.
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Either a thermal paste problem
or a heatsink centering issue
or possibly, if you're doing some gaming, replacing the heatsink with a more substantial one = €28.99 = https://www.topachat.com/pages/detail2_cat_est_micro_puis_rubrique_est_w_ven_puis_ref_est_in20008363.html
proper centering is crucial
and thermal paste is used to fill gaps = Aerocool Cog - 2 g = €4.99 = https://www.topachat.com/pages/detail2_cat_est_micro_puis_rubrique_est_w_path_puis_ref_est_in20005713.html
the heatsink normally comes with a thermal paste patch; you mustn't mess it up
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@old crooked bison,
Thank you very much
I will still replace the paste soon (I have some), I've already done it, I know "a little" about computers, which is why I'm asking these questions about temperatures.
I know how to build computers, but I bought this one "not to bother myself" and if I have to change the cooler, it will change all my plans, but if I have to do it, I will (but for me it's "something" that hits this temperature of 80°C)
but with a more efficient cooler, it might hit a temperature below, I really don't knowin any case, thank you very much
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Hello
Yes, it doesn't perform like the old 10700. Intel allows temperatures to rise higher than before, and it seems a bit complicated to track; each PC appears to give different temperature readings.
The TJmax of the 10700 is 100° (we try to avoid that).
The theoretical TDP is 65 W but is often exceeded in reality.
1) Curiously, there is a short period where it draws significantly more watts, hitting an "internal high safety," probably what you see around 90° at the start of a brutal and continuous stress test; it stays at a higher frequency for "a certain time" then the watts decrease while maintaining that high temperature:
In fact, at the beginning of the stress test, it climbs to over 90° (I think while it figures out that it's going to have to work)
2) or several times repeated the short period where it can push more watts; in less intensive use, it results in a "mobile internal safety," the average temperature rises less and varies all the time; it’s not too limited in frequency, but the cores also don’t have work 100% of the time, so the watts fluctuate all the time too:
between 30 and 40% of the CPU capacity) and I oscillate between 80 and 85°C
or 3) Then it regulates itself to 80° in stress test if it lasts too long for its liking, it hits an "internal low safety" in temperature; frequency limitation is way more severe, it probably should go back to the announced 65 W this time, which is what you see under those conditions:
100% usage for several long minutes, it stabilized itself at 80/81°C
And this time it is 20° below the TJmax on your PC.
Personal interpretation.
But this might be the first time someone has provided enough information about their 10700 PC on the ccm forum to present the very variable internal safety limits of the 10700 across the entire range (100°)-90°-85°-80° and the very different operating conditions that lead to these significantly different internal regulation temperatures.
(Assuming, of course, an anonymous unknown PC and not a PC set up to prove a theory)
The other post by Beardman62 (6)
https://forums.commentcamarche.net/forum/affich-37753204-i7-10700-qui-surchauffe
I understand better why it can be left with basic cooling in winter if you're really not doing anything demanding on the PC and that in full summer, a gamer who has overclocked the CPU on the most demanding game struggles to prevent it from heating up even with a big watercooling.Yet it seems really tough; the PC crashes but doesn’t burn out.
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it's a very good analysis,
so is all of this "normal"?
BUT would there be a way to lower the temperature? (it scares me, even though in my opinion it is designed for....)
Thank you :)Hello
Yes, it seems to handle it without suffering; it's not him who burns out. If you push it too far, you need to lower the settings or it crashes. If you keep improving this or that, it will be able to reach higher and higher frequencies, and without overclocking, it wouldn’t cost too much if you're reasonable.
We only know that the original cooler, which is supposed to handle 65W, can't cope with the heatwave because this 8-core 16-thread 2.9 GHz theoretical processor consumes more watts in reality.
It can go up to 4.7 GHz theoretically in Turbo Boost 2.0 and 4.8 GHz theoretically in Turbo Boost Max 3.0 (you probably know better than I do; it might be the motherboard or the settings that decide), but it’s still on a 14nm process.
There you take the proper motherboard; you didn't even realize you clicked, it's overclocked and runs at 4.8 GHz on 16 threads, and on top of that, it wants to consume them before even starting, so it pushes the amps on the 8 cores to max frequency.
That's the story of the overheating PC.
That's all I understood; my 10W @ 2.7 is at 100% at 71°. I haven't opened the box yet; it's not heating up too much yet. It's probably less than the 10700; no illusion there.
According to various posts from people who don’t come back, it probably works well with air cooling, which is cheaper and definitely less fragile than water cooling. No news here; there aren't any problems, right? Not everyone comes back, fortunately. Some people don't want to overclock at all.
In fact, it must depend on whether you make your PC work for several long minutes at 100% CPU, or not.
And I know some people overclock and others undervolt, but I don't know how to do that.
If I search a bit, I'll find the article that explains the few seconds where CPUs allow power draw—it's a matter of duration; I’ll have to come back to put one or two links.
They'll be more useful here than to me, I suppose:
https://www.tomshardware.fr/voici-les-limites-de-puissance-et-les-valeurs-tau-pour-tous-les-processeurs-comet-lake-s/
https://www.comptoir-hardware.com/actus/processeurs/41294-hard-du-hard-tdp-et-consommation-entre-technologie-et-entourloupe.html
The magic formula for 65W is written in TDP, sometimes it goes up to 224W and can last up to 28 seconds.
But not everyone would need to install such a large heatsink
because the processor isn't at 100% all the time.
because we can do TDP up or TDP down for certain processors.
In two lines I’m already lost!
The explanation is more complicated, a bit too much for me to recommend a specific heatsink.
Processor Core i7-10700
PL1 65 (W)
PL2 224 (W)
Tau 28 (Seconds)
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flo88 Posted messages 28485 Registration date Status Contributor Last intervention Ambassadeur 5 168
Hello
Read it quickly, because it's too long....
Is the cooler from Intel? If so, the temperatures make sense with this cardboard cooler, and Jojo's explanations (read quickly) are absolutely correct.
The issue (which isn't really one) is that the CPU, when it regulates to a temperature, does so by lowering its frequencies, thus its performance.
Another thought, what was used to measure the temperatures? Internally, the regulation is done core by core.
In conclusion, changing the cooler for a "real" one will solve everything.
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Euskadi Ta Askatasuna-
Thank you very much, I don't know if it's the one from BSE Intel, I can put up a photo if you want
But will that involve dismantling the motherboard to change the cooler?
I can't find one that fits the system already in place? (I don't know how to say it, but it's not the plastic clips, it has the system with screws)
Thank you
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normally, you do not have to dismantle the motherboard to install a heatsink
- it is the first support that is attached to the motherboard, but you should not take it apart
theoretically, these are not screws; they are "1/4 turn screws"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVHNHeCdxvM
https://www.google.com/webhp?client=firefox-b-d#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:1a54cc42,vid:qizJUGnFH30
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After checking, there really is a correlation between the fan rotation and CPU temperature-usage.
Could it be because of the "smart fan"?
The case has 3 fans,
And when the temperature starts to rise, it first ramps one fan up to 2000rpm, but keeps the CPU fan at 1000,
Then the CPU fan gradually increases, but even when the temperature remains high while CPU usage drops, it lowers the fan speed (I imagine thinking that the workload is finished), but since it starts again right afterward, it struggles to cool down, yet eventually does cool down (over time), but with what I'm making it do, it stays above 80/85 for long minutes without alerting...
It's frustrating because in the end, it's not really a "mechanical" problem.
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flo88 Posted messages 28485 Registration date Status Contributor Last intervention Ambassadeur 5 168
It's a cooler almost identical to the one provided by Intel, completely inadequate for cooling an i7 10700.
It needs to be changed, that's the only advice to give.
A real cooler, here installed on a motherboard, looks like this:
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Euskadi Ta Askatasuna-
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It is true that most high-quality coolers require access to the back of the motherboard for the initial installation. However, some use the Intel clip system (as described by old bison).
This one, for example, would be good for your CPU:
But be careful, you need to check the available height in your PC case; if it’s a standard size model, there shouldn’t be any issues, otherwise you’ll need a more compact model.
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But I'm sticking to my guns
And I'm telling myself that an adjustment is possible,
Not through the BIOS, as I have no way to modify the fans
But yesterday by removing the smartfan, it set all 3 fans to 4500rpm (way too loud, that's for sure)
But at idle, I was around 20°C
Whereas usually I'm around 40° with those fans at 1000rpm
When I see it rise above 80°, it has never sent the fans above 2000rpm
Even though they can go up to +4500rpm max
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flo88 Posted messages 28485 Registration date Status Contributor Last intervention Ambassadeur 5 168
Without the equipment in front of me, it's complicated, but it will depend on the cooler you already have in place; if it's screwed in, that means it has a plate under the motherboard that you'll probably have to remove because the TX3 attaches with clips, it needs space under the motherboard. If it's a clipped system, you don't need to disassemble the motherboard, the process is the same as in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAQLsbYPRAY&feature=youtu.be
On YouTube, you can type "Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO installation tutorial" and you'll find plenty of assembly videos that can help you.
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Euskadi Ta Askatasuna-
Hello, yes I know how to install a CPU cooler, but there are "pins" to screw that stick out of the case/motherboard.
Would a system be compatible without needing to remove the motherboard?
complicated... this system is common with coolers but:
It requires the same diameter and the same thread pitch (the manufacturers do not provide this information), and also an identical height alignment because if the cooler does not press enough, the CPU will not be in contact; on the other hand, if it presses too much, it will damage the motherboard socket..
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