Three-phase installation for power line communication
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superdelly
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brupala Posted messages 111935 Registration date Status Membre Last intervention -
brupala Posted messages 111935 Registration date Status Membre Last intervention -
Hello everyone!
I’ve read the post about the preliminary phase test if I want my powerline adapter to work, I got a voltmeter... but here’s the thing... how does a voltmeter work? Should I set it to V with a wavy symbol or V with a straight line and dashed lines underneath? On which scale? 200? 600? more? less? Red wire or? Black wire or? I should have paid more attention in my physics classes! HELP! Without your help, I won’t know if I can FINALLY proceed with setting up my powerline network! Thanks in advance!
I’ve read the post about the preliminary phase test if I want my powerline adapter to work, I got a voltmeter... but here’s the thing... how does a voltmeter work? Should I set it to V with a wavy symbol or V with a straight line and dashed lines underneath? On which scale? 200? 600? more? less? Red wire or? Black wire or? I should have paid more attention in my physics classes! HELP! Without your help, I won’t know if I can FINALLY proceed with setting up my powerline network! Thanks in advance!
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I don't understand why a phase coupler wasn't recommended to this brave man??
http://www.infocall.fr
http://www.infocall.fr
Hello, the symbol for alternating current is a sideways S, then the standard for the wires is BLUE for the return, GREEN/YELLOW for the ground, all other colors carry current. For the voltmeter, take the black lead and connect it to a BLUE wire, and with the red lead, check the other wires for one that will show 220 V. For calibration, set it to 300 V or higher, but not below 220 V, otherwise the multimeter will be out of order. Patrick.
Whoa, danger!!!
Wait, why do you want to measure the voltage? I don't see what that will get you.
All the necessary information is already written on your meter or on the EDF circuit breaker, no need to use a voltmeter. Who's the fool who recommended that?
Next,
using the voltmeter:
You ALWAYS start with the highest AC range: 600 V for example, and then switch to a lower range for maximum precision (only if necessary).
Info: Today, the voltage between phases is 400 volts and between phase and neutral is 230 volts (in France), it can go up to 250 V.
But to measure,
that means you have to take the panel apart, which is strictly forbidden if you don't have the necessary skills!!!
--
Wait, why do you want to measure the voltage? I don't see what that will get you.
All the necessary information is already written on your meter or on the EDF circuit breaker, no need to use a voltmeter. Who's the fool who recommended that?
Next,
using the voltmeter:
You ALWAYS start with the highest AC range: 600 V for example, and then switch to a lower range for maximum precision (only if necessary).
Info: Today, the voltage between phases is 400 volts and between phase and neutral is 230 volts (in France), it can go up to 250 V.
But to measure,
that means you have to take the panel apart, which is strictly forbidden if you don't have the necessary skills!!!
--
and ... There you go!
Re!
Well, to make a powerline network, all my relevant sockets need to be on the same phase, which is not easy at my place, considering it's a very old three-phase installation. So to check this, I found a post from 2005 (cpl) that suggested using a voltmeter. Now, if there are other solutions... it's mainly because my electrician is ghosting me (a shock, perhaps!) and doesn't seem to want to come and test this, so I'm stuck with my network setup between my PC and my laptop (no, I can't do wired, too far, too complicated with the yard to cross), and no, I also can't do it via wifi (farm walls too thick)...
Thanks in advance to everyone!
Well, to make a powerline network, all my relevant sockets need to be on the same phase, which is not easy at my place, considering it's a very old three-phase installation. So to check this, I found a post from 2005 (cpl) that suggested using a voltmeter. Now, if there are other solutions... it's mainly because my electrician is ghosting me (a shock, perhaps!) and doesn't seem to want to come and test this, so I'm stuck with my network setup between my PC and my laptop (no, I can't do wired, too far, too complicated with the yard to cross), and no, I also can't do it via wifi (farm walls too thick)...
Thanks in advance to everyone!
If it's a very old installation,
you probably have a protection panel at the entrance with 3 or 4 fuses (one per phase and maybe one for the neutral, rather a neutral bar), in addition to the differential circuit breaker. In this case, you can remove the fuse from one phase and test which outlets work or not on that phase.
By doing this one by one for the 3 phases, you will be able to map which outlets are on which phase.
Warning:
while handling fuses, always turn off the circuit breaker!!
Stop the devices operating on three-phase during these tests: motors do not appreciate being powered by only 2 phases.
PS:
I deleted the unnecessary and dangerous message that recommended using a voltmeter to do this.
Thank you for providing the link.
Also,
if the PLC does not work in your case, you should still be able to switch to WiFi by setting up a bridge (2 access points) with outdoor antennas.
--
you probably have a protection panel at the entrance with 3 or 4 fuses (one per phase and maybe one for the neutral, rather a neutral bar), in addition to the differential circuit breaker. In this case, you can remove the fuse from one phase and test which outlets work or not on that phase.
By doing this one by one for the 3 phases, you will be able to map which outlets are on which phase.
Warning:
while handling fuses, always turn off the circuit breaker!!
Stop the devices operating on three-phase during these tests: motors do not appreciate being powered by only 2 phases.
PS:
I deleted the unnecessary and dangerous message that recommended using a voltmeter to do this.
Thank you for providing the link.
Also,
if the PLC does not work in your case, you should still be able to switch to WiFi by setting up a bridge (2 access points) with outdoor antennas.
--
and ... Voilà Voilà Voilà!
Hello,
indeed the PLC works on one phase, (even if it can switch from one phase to another by oscillation, but it's unusable). But if there is a distribution by phase, there is a reason for it!
If you hope to put all your outlets on the same phase like that, you risk big electrical problems by unbalancing your entire electrical network, overloading one phase, overloading the neutral and risking completely melting it, and then... big problems!!
You absolutely need to let an electrician handle this.
Forget about your voltmeter.
Otherwise, you can select the right outlets using the good old method of testing everything and identifying it.
Like:
transmitter on this outlet, where am I receiving the signal?
transmitter on another outlet, same
etc...
indeed the PLC works on one phase, (even if it can switch from one phase to another by oscillation, but it's unusable). But if there is a distribution by phase, there is a reason for it!
If you hope to put all your outlets on the same phase like that, you risk big electrical problems by unbalancing your entire electrical network, overloading one phase, overloading the neutral and risking completely melting it, and then... big problems!!
You absolutely need to let an electrician handle this.
Forget about your voltmeter.
Otherwise, you can select the right outlets using the good old method of testing everything and identifying it.
Like:
transmitter on this outlet, where am I receiving the signal?
transmitter on another outlet, same
etc...
Well, thank you all for these clarifications! So, in the end, I’m going to pressure my electrician to come check all this, and if it doesn't work due to different phases, since I actually have the office on one side and the house on the other, separated by a small courtyard, but only one meter (and no, I don’t live in a Versailles 2.0!), I’ll see about the external access points.
Thank you thank you thank you!
Thank you thank you thank you!
That said,
the best and most reliable solution would be to run an Ethernet cable if the total length is less than 100m.
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the best and most reliable solution would be to run an Ethernet cable if the total length is less than 100m.
--
and ... Voila Voila Voila !
Thank you for all your advice, but no, for wired, you have to drill through two big farm walls (60/80 cm), dig a trench in the yard, run a conduit... pfffffffffff... powerline or Wi-Fi, certainly more expensive, would be easier!
Well maybe because the brave man is a... woman...! So, to recap, the electrician came to sort out my phases, so if I decide to switch to three-phase, that's fine, but as I mentioned earlier, it's the wifi that won in the end, that's why this topic is resolved. See, even girls can achieve results ;-) !!!