Samsung TV problem UE55C6000RWXZF

https://www.zupimages.net/up/3/1155207625.jpg

here is the link to the board on which I marked the changed capacitors. Indeed there are fuses on the board but I did not test them, probably wrongly, because I thought that since the power-on LED is blinking, those were okay, right?
I did not notice that the backlight turns on.

Here is the schematic of the board.
http://www.google.fr/...

The power board is for sale here:
https://www.axarquiainformatica.com/bn44-00359b.html

So, the capacitors you removed, are they bad...?

There are three fuses that it would be good to check...

The output voltages are indicated in the printed tables on the board itself (in white), you should measure these voltages... see what is good and what is not.

After unplugging the connectors, does the power supply work ..? Does the red LED continue to flash.

In No. 2 the "INVERTERS" are also causes of failures on TVs... On some models these circuits are mounted in two identical parts, and it is possible to unplug one to test and then the other... But in that case; you should hear the sound...??
Keep an eye on the back of the TV to see if the backlights come on..

So there you go, if you want to continue trying to diagnose; but I still share Xileh's view about thinking.... It isn't easy... otherwise impossible to guess remotely, without seeing, without measurements and without schematics, often.

However, when I have time, I gnaw my bone to the end before admitting defeat... And I still found it more than 50% of the time... But not remotely.

Hi.

I recommend you call Samsung... Only they will know exactly where the problem comes from...

Some Samsung TVs have had quite a few issues... Yours must be one of them ^^.

++

It's not obvious like this without knowing more... Are there fuses on the boards, are they good..?
Internal LEDs lit up

On the POWER board, there are often the output voltages of the printed circuit... ?? to be measured.

For the photos, you have to go to a site like IMAGE-up or Ci-joint for example? Upload the photo there... and only post the link on the forum that will allow us to view the photo.

Does the backlight turn on...?

Otherwise... Statistically, it's often the Power board... Be sure to read its reference and try to find the schematic and/or the board; because very often the same exists on several brands of televisions...

Here are my first indications... a bit on the radar I must say

Hello

I am "stunned" to see the number of times where, according to the “layperson’s gauge,” condensers are considered to be the default cause of the failure...
Even if it is true that these components are quite often the origin of failures.... there are other parts in a television...

In short, remote troubleshooting is a matter of "imagination" (except in obvious cases... and even then a component may be seen as defective... while having been "destroyed" by another... which would cause the same failure...)

So... take the path of after-sales service by requesting a quote, if out of warranty....

See you

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He who knows that he does not know, knows more than he who does not know that he knows...

Thank you Jeannets for all your information this week. I will continue the investigations (check the fuses and voltages) but if that yields nothing I think I will order the board you sent me via the link. A small additional question: any compatibility issues with the boards, or anything else? If I replace it, will it surely work again?

I can’t promise anything; if you replace the power board with an identical one and there’s nothing else, yes, it’ll work.

But no one can guarantee that there aren’t other faulty circuits in this TV.

You can also search on Le Bon Coin; you sometimes find surprising things there.

Hi Jeannets. Yesterday I bought a multimeter and I was able to test that the fuses were OK. But for the voltages it’s more complicated. I don’t know if I did what I needed to, but I saw that on the board there was a table with your input and output voltages rafting and component reference numbers next to them... So I tried to take them, but nothing was coherent, the values don’t stabilize. Let me explain how I did it: I plugged the board into power, then with the black lead of the multimeter I put a ground and the red lead on the component’s output ??? Is that right? The multimeter set to volts at 200. If you want I can send you photos of the table on the board and the multimeter settings? Or maybe my measurements are correct and there’s a voltage issue on the board, I don’t know how that would manifest? Thanks for your help

For example.. the table at the bottom left "Output Rating" = output values indicated for CNM501, CNL801, ... in Input Rating CN801S if I read correctly because it's a bit blurry...

So I see at the top of the image the connector CNL801... Out2 and OUT1 is given as 260 volts... There is OUT2- and OUT2+ same for OUT1

Therefore you must measure between OUT2- and OUT2+ to find 260V, same for OUT1..
the symbol = in dotted line indicates that the voltage is not DC but pulsed; for measurement, the multimeter must be in AC position... symbol ~;...

If you don't find these voltages (approximately) it's because there is a fault... I suppose there isn't much good in the measurements since there is a problem.. And that in there, everything bites its own tail.

Thank you for your help—with your clarifications everything becomes clearer and, above all, easier. The results show that there is indeed a voltage issue. Between out1 +/- I have 220V and between out2 +/- 200V instead of the planned 260. So we can consider that the fault (high probability) comes from the power supply board? I can continue the investigations to diagnose the component that is faulty.