5 beeps at startup with a solid green LED

Hello,

It depends on the brand of the BIOS...

And long beeps or short beeps... it's a bit like Morse code... if that makes sense to you

for example: in AMI BIOS ==>

Hello.

5 beeps = problem with the processor.

bazfile
Moderator/Security Contributor.
A hello, a response, a thank you are always appreciated.

Hello

Short or long, it's not specified.

5 short beeps (it's very, very quick), as mentioned above, processor (generally, it's often due to moving the PC, the heatsink moves and the CPU is no longer in proper contact with the socket)

5 long beeps: Graphics card poorly seated (also due to moving the PC) or faulty.

Signature
Euskadi Ta Askatasuna

I can offer you my method for testing the motherboard and its processor to see if it works a little or not at all..??

+++ Minimum Boot of a PC +++

The motherboard is equipped with a BIOS... you received a manual with the motherboard... It explains how to access the BIOS (Generally, it's the Delete key immediately upon powering on and before the end of the logo) you need to be quick...

For now, I'm not talking about Windows... the goal is to get the PC running, not Windows, that will come later.

So if accessing the BIOS yields nothing, you need to disconnect everything from your setup... leaving only the motherboard (with its processor and one stick of RAM) connected to its power supply and the power button of the case.. And the wired keyboard, that's all...
No graphics card, no hard drive or SSD, no CD/DVD drive, no screen.
Power on the PC while closely watching the keyboard lights... They should briefly light up, even all three and then one ... and then you play with the Num Lock and/or Caps Lock keys... the lights should change states with each press of the key...

If that's not the case, you need to disassemble everything and check step by step, the correct connection of each component... don't make mistakes with the fans.. the 4 or 8 pin connector above the processor PWR_CPU...

Is the CMOS battery good..?? If there's no positive result, there’s a fault in there, maybe the microprocessor..??

Yes, but my instructions don't stop there... There are many other things to check in order to draw a preliminary conclusion.

I still haven't found a solution, I think I'll give it to a repairman as a last resort but I don't have much hope, but I thank you for your various contributions.

If you disconnect everything from the motherboard, as I indicated in my POST8... do the beeps still occur when you power it on..??

OK, the CMOS reset button is normal; it's just a push-button, they're all like that.

-- There should be a CMOS battery (3 volts) in place and active... This type of PC doesn't have a connector for the battery; it is placed in a holder with contact claws, soldered onto the motherboard... if something is broken or bent, it needs to be replaced or repaired... But contact must be established and the 3 volts must communicate with the motherboard.

This battery is of the "disk" type with the reference CR3020; it is available in supermarkets.

Yes Flo88, I completely stuttered, it's indeed CR2032.

Kevin777

If the connection of this battery is interrupted, it's a real problem...YES.

Why are you talking about a connector for this battery..??

On a battery, there are two contacts and that's it...Having "BATTERY CONNECTORS"??? We're not expressing ourselves the same way.

Could you send a clear and readable photo of this "connector"... upload it on the site cjoint.com https://cjoint.com/

Don't forget to paste the link provided by the site here so we can find your image.

OK, I saw your image. It's indeed the assembly of this battery that I was talking about...

The battery is placed in the black circular holder... upside down compared to your photo... It's in the shadow...

The "MINUS" is the side we see, it is isolated from the outer circle, and must be in contact with the shiny plate that we see.

The "PLUS" is the outer part of the case, it must be in contact and clicked in with the hook tab, on the outer perimeter... you need to push a little to hear the click sound... and thus the battery should stay locked in place.

I wouldn't call that a "connector"... but anyway...

I have the feeling that you were putting this battery... upside down...???

Double-check all that... it should work...!

I tried and I'm still having the same problem, but I'm wondering if it is possible that the battery holder cannot conduct because I tested it for continuity and got zero conduction.

Yes, it's possible... especially if it has been tampered with..!

It's the bottom blade or the external claw that breaks or becomes unsoldered from the circuit board of the motherboard.

You need to find the solder pads on the back of the motherboard and check for continuity with an ohmmeter, with the other side... you should have zero ohms for continuity and infinity in case of a break.

-- If you base it on the battery voltage, it can drop very low, close to zero, if you have a nice short circuit... But that's quite rare... or your battery is faulty... surprising if it's new.

Yes, I suppose it's because you measure in Voltmeter and not in ohmmeter..?

So we can assume that the 3.3 volts is working well..?? In which case, the problem would be elsewhere.

I'm thinking of going back to my POST 6 to resume the checks in order, completely disassemble everything... and have as my only goal... the lights on the keyboard and that's it.

I have tried in vain and still the same problem after a test with another processor, the problem persists. I then concluded that the issue comes from the motherboard. Thank you all for your help.