Green artifacts on the screen upon startup
Kerrawin
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Kerrawin -
Kerrawin -
Hello,
after many years of service, I decided to change my graphics card (MSI GTX 1060 6Gb) for a MSI VENTUS RTX 2060 8Gb.
Happy with my upgrade, I boot up the PC after installing the new card, I install the new drivers and I realize with great joy that this card is amazing, running all the most demanding games on Ultra, with or without RTX without any issues.
Here comes trouble...
On the 2nd boot of the PC later in the day, the computer starts normally, and after a few minutes, I notice that my Windows Explorer won't open. Then green artifacts appear on the screen (a bit like if part of Space Invaders was being played on my desktop), then the screens go black and the computer restarts. And since then, it has only been doing that (booting --> Desktop --> Artifacts --> Black screen).
So to write on this forum, I had to switch back to the 1060 (which works perfectly), but I admit it's frustrating.
Is this a problem related to the graphics card? Or is it a defect linked to a possible underpowering of the card? (Which would explain the PC reboot).
Here’s my setup:
Motherboard: MPG B550 GAMING PLUS (MS-7C56) 1.0 (BIOS 1.30)
Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 3.20 GHz AM4
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CMK16GX4M2A2133C13 P0
Drives: 3 HDD - 2 SSD
Graphics card: MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Super VENTUS GP OC
Power supply: 550 W (recommended for the Graphics Card)
(I am using dual screens, connected via one HDMI and one Display Port, having the same issue with just one screen)
Thanks for your replies!
after many years of service, I decided to change my graphics card (MSI GTX 1060 6Gb) for a MSI VENTUS RTX 2060 8Gb.
Happy with my upgrade, I boot up the PC after installing the new card, I install the new drivers and I realize with great joy that this card is amazing, running all the most demanding games on Ultra, with or without RTX without any issues.
Here comes trouble...
On the 2nd boot of the PC later in the day, the computer starts normally, and after a few minutes, I notice that my Windows Explorer won't open. Then green artifacts appear on the screen (a bit like if part of Space Invaders was being played on my desktop), then the screens go black and the computer restarts. And since then, it has only been doing that (booting --> Desktop --> Artifacts --> Black screen).
So to write on this forum, I had to switch back to the 1060 (which works perfectly), but I admit it's frustrating.
Is this a problem related to the graphics card? Or is it a defect linked to a possible underpowering of the card? (Which would explain the PC reboot).
Here’s my setup:
Motherboard: MPG B550 GAMING PLUS (MS-7C56) 1.0 (BIOS 1.30)
Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 3.20 GHz AM4
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CMK16GX4M2A2133C13 P0
Drives: 3 HDD - 2 SSD
Graphics card: MSI GeForce RTX 2060 Super VENTUS GP OC
Power supply: 550 W (recommended for the Graphics Card)
(I am using dual screens, connected via one HDMI and one Display Port, having the same issue with just one screen)
Thanks for your replies!
4 answers
Hi,
According to: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/evga-geforce-rtx-2060-ko/31.html a 500W PSU is recommended, so 550W should be sufficient. Between the 1060 6 GB and the 2060, we can expect an additional consumption of 60W.
You detailed your components well except for the main one. The PSU. Which one is it?
According to: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/evga-geforce-rtx-2060-ko/31.html a 500W PSU is recommended, so 550W should be sufficient. Between the 1060 6 GB and the 2060, we can expect an additional consumption of 60W.
You detailed your components well except for the main one. The PSU. Which one is it?
You're not to blame and it's a bonus. The warranty duration can be an indicator of reliability. Unfortunately, https://www.materiel.net/produit/201307110030.html has a 2-year warranty, but I don't know if it's this one. It's not even clearly indicated on the official site: https://www.fsplifestyle.com/PROP161000093/
So, not great for the power supply.
Before changing it, you need to diagnose it. You can use a multimeter set to continuous voltage mode above 12V to check the voltages of 3.3, 5, and 12V.
Disconnect all cables.
To do this, you need to short-circuit the GND pin with the PS_ON (Power Supply ON) pin of the large cable that you connect to the motherboard while the power supply is OFF. Then turn on the power supply. Next, while the power supply is running, use the multimeter to test X volts at another GND. The multimeter should display a value very close to X. For 12V, you should have between 11.6 and 12.4, for 5V: 4.7, 5.3, and for 3.3: 3.1, 3.5.
So, not great for the power supply.
Before changing it, you need to diagnose it. You can use a multimeter set to continuous voltage mode above 12V to check the voltages of 3.3, 5, and 12V.
Disconnect all cables.
To do this, you need to short-circuit the GND pin with the PS_ON (Power Supply ON) pin of the large cable that you connect to the motherboard while the power supply is OFF. Then turn on the power supply. Next, while the power supply is running, use the multimeter to test X volts at another GND. The multimeter should display a value very close to X. For 12V, you should have between 11.6 and 12.4, for 5V: 4.7, 5.3, and for 3.3: 3.1, 3.5.
I forgot to tell you that you can read the values of the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V rails on the power supply label.
You will see a table with, for example: 12V, 40A, which makes 480W = 12x40 on the rail.
An average power supply should have at least 70% of its nominal power on the 12V rail. The best power supplies have at least 95 to 98% on the 12V.
In doing further research, your power supply is not guaranteed for 2 years but for 5 years; its 12V rail according to: https://www.fsplifestyle.com/en/product/RaiderII550w.html is 100% of the nominal power. Check my link to see if you have the same power supply and if you have had it for less than 5 years, make a warranty claim. It would save you from having to pay for another power supply.
You will see a table with, for example: 12V, 40A, which makes 480W = 12x40 on the rail.
An average power supply should have at least 70% of its nominal power on the 12V rail. The best power supplies have at least 95 to 98% on the 12V.
In doing further research, your power supply is not guaranteed for 2 years but for 5 years; its 12V rail according to: https://www.fsplifestyle.com/en/product/RaiderII550w.html is 100% of the nominal power. Check my link to see if you have the same power supply and if you have had it for less than 5 years, make a warranty claim. It would save you from having to pay for another power supply.
flo88
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Hi
In my opinion, the problem is the RTX 2060; artifacts are a sign of a failing card. If I were you, I wouldn't look any further and would contact customer service.
Another point that has nothing to do with this (in theory)... you have a B550 GAMING PLUS ......
How is it possible that you're running a Ryzen 5 1600 on this recent motherboard, which is normally not compatible, not even with 2xxx...?
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Euskadi Ta Askatasuna
In my opinion, the problem is the RTX 2060; artifacts are a sign of a failing card. If I were you, I wouldn't look any further and would contact customer service.
Another point that has nothing to do with this (in theory)... you have a B550 GAMING PLUS ......
How is it possible that you're running a Ryzen 5 1600 on this recent motherboard, which is normally not compatible, not even with 2xxx...?
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Euskadi Ta Askatasuna
Hello Flo, and thank you for your message.
I'll try to test the graphics card on a more powerful setup to be sure.
Regarding the motherboard, since it was a gift, I did try it with my good old processor (to save some money), and it's working very well, no blue screens or anything, and the processor is being used normally even in games.
I'll try to test the graphics card on a more powerful setup to be sure.
Regarding the motherboard, since it was a gift, I did try it with my good old processor (to save some money), and it's working very well, no blue screens or anything, and the processor is being used normally even in games.
Update after power supply change.
I switched to a Gigabyte ATX 750W 80+ Gold - P750GM Fully Modular, and the result seems much better!
No more reboots, no more artifacts on the screen (at least for now).
It appears that the issue came from the power supply, which was not powerful enough (even though it was recommended by MSI and advertised as 550W).
Thank you for your feedback!
I switched to a Gigabyte ATX 750W 80+ Gold - P750GM Fully Modular, and the result seems much better!
No more reboots, no more artifacts on the screen (at least for now).
It appears that the issue came from the power supply, which was not powerful enough (even though it was recommended by MSI and advertised as 550W).
Thank you for your feedback!