Asus P8Z68-V Red CPU LED On
Rom0307
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Rom0307 -
Rom0307 -
Hello,
Since last night, I measured the free space for a new fan for my CPU (Intel 2600K). I measured it with a plastic ruler (non-conductive) without putting my big fingers on the electronic circuits of my motherboard, and my PC suddenly shut down.
I waited 5 minutes for all the components to cool down sufficiently, and when I tried to turn it back on, the tower powered on, but the CPU LED lit up red.
I then went online and followed the procedure with the CMOS jumper, placing it in position 2-3 and then putting it back to its original position 1-2, but it didn’t work with this method. My PC turns on for barely 2 seconds before shutting down and restarting about 5 seconds later, and this happens in a loop...
The LEDs of my fans light up normally, including those of my power supply (Corsair GS-600), and the fan of my CPU also spins, but like the rest, it stops after two seconds.
Should I try the method of removing the BIOS battery or is it not worth it (considering I’ve already tried the jumper method), or are there other methods to ensure the CPU LED doesn’t light up anymore and everything restarts normally?
(I naturally haven’t unplugged any cables from the power supply to the motherboard...)
Here's my motherboard:
http://used.dospara.co.jp/img/item/manual/RWEB_83160000017906.jpg
Thank you in advance.
Configuration: Windows XP / Safari 536.11
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Since last night, I measured the free space for a new fan for my CPU (Intel 2600K). I measured it with a plastic ruler (non-conductive) without putting my big fingers on the electronic circuits of my motherboard, and my PC suddenly shut down.
I waited 5 minutes for all the components to cool down sufficiently, and when I tried to turn it back on, the tower powered on, but the CPU LED lit up red.
I then went online and followed the procedure with the CMOS jumper, placing it in position 2-3 and then putting it back to its original position 1-2, but it didn’t work with this method. My PC turns on for barely 2 seconds before shutting down and restarting about 5 seconds later, and this happens in a loop...
The LEDs of my fans light up normally, including those of my power supply (Corsair GS-600), and the fan of my CPU also spins, but like the rest, it stops after two seconds.
Should I try the method of removing the BIOS battery or is it not worth it (considering I’ve already tried the jumper method), or are there other methods to ensure the CPU LED doesn’t light up anymore and everything restarts normally?
(I naturally haven’t unplugged any cables from the power supply to the motherboard...)
Here's my motherboard:
http://used.dospara.co.jp/img/item/manual/RWEB_83160000017906.jpg
Thank you in advance.
Configuration: Windows XP / Safari 536.11
--
Please make sure to mark your threads as resolved if that’s the case, otherwise they linger...
4 answers
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Hi, beeps at the BIOS level (if you have a speaker, of course)? An error message? Nothing?
Check if the 8-pin CPU is properly connected, sometimes the 4+4 cables are a hassle.
Set the two TPU and EPU buttons to Disabled.
Ahhh Asus motherboards...-
Thank you for your reply, I forgot to mention, nothing on the screen (and not just the speakers, I can hear all the components starting up anyway...)
I'll check the CPU pins tonight, and the TPU and EPU buttons are currently in the green 'on' position, I'll turn them off tonight during the tests ;)
Yeah, ASUS motherboards, when they start acting up, they really start acting up, huh ^^
Personally, I find them much more performant than other brands' motherboards that are supposedly on the same level, but as I said, when the troubles with ASUS begin, it's clear that they really begin...
See you tonight :) -
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Personally, I find them much more efficient than the other brands' motherboards that are supposedly on the same level.
Well, for me, it's the opposite. I only had Asus, two of which broke down, the same model as yours, and a P8P67. So, I switched to MSI for a Z68 A GD80 GEN 3, and you can definitely feel that it's solid. Plus, no crappy LEDs that just complicate things rather than help. And the quality of the components is less fragile, especially. Anyway, everyone has their own tastes, but personally, I'm not about to switch from MSI anytime soon.
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At the 24 pins level?
Is the heatsink properly reconnected to the CPU fan?-
If you connect the power supply to the 24-pin connector on my motherboard, I have checked it several times, it is well connected.
The stock cooler from Intel (the one that came in the box with the CPU) is also properly connected since it runs briefly during startup.
I also followed the instructions on the Asus website:
http://support.asus.com/Troubleshooting/detail.aspx?SLanguage=en-us&p=1&m=P8H61-M%20EVO&s=39&no=552
It doesn't work either, I called their number 01... but it was too late so an automatic answering system replied that their center was closed (makes sense, calling quite late around 8 PM...).
I think I will call Asus' 01 number again with my computer in front of me and if they can't help me, ==> return to LDLC (where I bought my computer built).
That's it, let me know what you think and thanks again for your help :-) ...
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Try to power it on without the CPU and RAM to see if it shows anything on the screen. (I've never tried/seen it, but you never know)
In any case, it's a memory issue, so we'll see if it's the processor that's acting up, the RAM, or simply the motherboard that's going crazy...
Intervening in a powered-on and running PC is quite risky, much more for the hardware than for the person intervening. ;)
I would have suggested a Memtest, but I think the BIOS is inaccessible...-
Ok, thanks for your input, but how can you say that it's the RAM that's having issues? My two Corsair sticks of 4GB each in DDR3 1600MHz have always worked fine...
I'll talk to my dad about it; according to him, it would be better not to touch anything because it could be noticeable and that we should take the computer straight to LDLC for them to fix it. What do you think? -
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Sure, it's up to you ;)
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Ok, well, I'm going to talk to my dad about it tonight then (especially since I wanted to buy this fan:
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/cpu.product.tpl&no=181&type=CPU%20coolers&type_sub=Retail%20cooler&model=AK-CC4008HP01
The stock one from Intel is fine when you're not pushing the CPU too hard, but when I launch Battlefield 3, the fan starts having seizures very quickly lol
I've also planned to buy a Corsair 120GB SSD, the one that delivers 550 MB read and 510 MB write, and now my computer is failing on me: '--' anyway, I hope it comes back to life soon, the poor thing :/ ...
I think I'm going to take my computer fully assembled to LDLC, I'll let you know the outcome, thanks for your help ;-) -
In SSDs, I recommend the Crucial... especially the M4 in 120GB, its Marvell controller is the most reliable on the market, and the PCB (printed circuit board) as well as the memory used are of good quality.
Personally, I got an Intel because my dealer didn't have any Crucial...
I doubt the theoretical speeds are really delivered ;)
The Corsairs are good... but in the future, I would avoid SSDs based on SandForce.
In terms of CPU cooling, the Akasa Venom is very good, our friend Francky had one, and it cooled his overclocked i5 2500K very well ;) -
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Yes, the Venom V2, not this Venom, the Voodoo, it has 6 heatpipes and out of 6, 4 to 5 are in contact with the CPU, and the heatpipes are 6mm in diameter, compared to 8mm for the Venom V2 which had 4 heatpipes, but well placed on the CPU, you see what I mean, they mention it in the tests they conducted.
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