PC that turns off by itself after 10 minutes
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vince-sk8
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Hello,
I have a problem. One of my two PCs starts up (normal), but after about 10 minutes it shuts down by itself and to turn it back on, I have to wait another 10 minutes (approximately) and so on.
Where does the problem come from? Thank you for your help.
Goodbye.
I have a problem. One of my two PCs starts up (normal), but after about 10 minutes it shuts down by itself and to turn it back on, I have to wait another 10 minutes (approximately) and so on.
Where does the problem come from? Thank you for your help.
Goodbye.
Configuration: Windows XP Firefox 2.0.0.14
26 réponses
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Suivant
The first explanation that comes to mind is that your second PC may have a problem with the processor's cooling. The security system that monitors your PC's "health" (via BIOS settings and various thermal and electrical sensors) has diagnosed an overheating issue with the processor, and to prevent a "catastrophe" (like the CPU turning into a toaster), it immediately cuts off the power. Your PC restarts once it has cooled down a bit.
Therefore, first, you need to check the temperature and voltage of the processor using the monitoring tools provided by the PC's BIOS. I hope you have a standard PC, not the kind of junk that some (big?) brands sell at hypermarkets (the kind of PCs or laptops with subpar BIOS). So, let's assume that your PC's BIOS allows you to monitor the temperature of the processor and motherboard as well as all the various voltages provided by the power supply (+/- 12v, +/- 5v, +3.3, etc.). Normally, you access the BIOS setup screen by pressing the [Delete] key (or [F2], [F10], it's indicated at the bottom of the screen during startup). Once in the BIOS, look for the page offering a "Hardware Monitor" or something similar... Once found, check the displayed temperature. Is it within the norm? Less than 70° I hope! Your check should last more than 10 minutes since you said your PC crashes afterward... Is the temperature okay? If so, then check if the threshold setting for triggering the safety feature is set too low, say at 30 or 40°.
If the processor is overheating, it could be due to a faulty fan (a common case), check the rotation speed indicated in the BIOS. If you need to change the whole cooling unit, you'll obviously need to reapply thermal paste, as indicated by Le Druide.
So? Was it that or not? There are certainly other avenues to explore... What kind of PC is it? Motherboard? Processor? Operating system being used? Is the power supply strong enough for the installed peripherals (graphics card/hard disk/DVD)?...
If your PC is too old or doesn't offer monitoring of temperatures/voltages and fan speeds, you can use programs like Everest, under Windows, to display and monitor the thermal sensors of the PC. Try that too:
questionable link removed CCM Moderation
There are tons of utilities on this Boot-CD!!! As well as programs to perform a checkup of the PC...
Therefore, first, you need to check the temperature and voltage of the processor using the monitoring tools provided by the PC's BIOS. I hope you have a standard PC, not the kind of junk that some (big?) brands sell at hypermarkets (the kind of PCs or laptops with subpar BIOS). So, let's assume that your PC's BIOS allows you to monitor the temperature of the processor and motherboard as well as all the various voltages provided by the power supply (+/- 12v, +/- 5v, +3.3, etc.). Normally, you access the BIOS setup screen by pressing the [Delete] key (or [F2], [F10], it's indicated at the bottom of the screen during startup). Once in the BIOS, look for the page offering a "Hardware Monitor" or something similar... Once found, check the displayed temperature. Is it within the norm? Less than 70° I hope! Your check should last more than 10 minutes since you said your PC crashes afterward... Is the temperature okay? If so, then check if the threshold setting for triggering the safety feature is set too low, say at 30 or 40°.
If the processor is overheating, it could be due to a faulty fan (a common case), check the rotation speed indicated in the BIOS. If you need to change the whole cooling unit, you'll obviously need to reapply thermal paste, as indicated by Le Druide.
So? Was it that or not? There are certainly other avenues to explore... What kind of PC is it? Motherboard? Processor? Operating system being used? Is the power supply strong enough for the installed peripherals (graphics card/hard disk/DVD)?...
If your PC is too old or doesn't offer monitoring of temperatures/voltages and fan speeds, you can use programs like Everest, under Windows, to display and monitor the thermal sensors of the PC. Try that too:
questionable link removed CCM Moderation
There are tons of utilities on this Boot-CD!!! As well as programs to perform a checkup of the PC...
I tried to turn on my PC to do what you told me, Benji31, but I can't turn it on. I press the button to power it on, but only a light comes on; the fans don't start, there's no noise, just the light.
Hi (sorry for forgetting to read your response yesterday).
So, your PC has reached a turning point, and now it won't start anymore (even when cold?). But there's still a bit of life in it since a light is on. Which one? Only the Power light on the case, or on the motherboard (in which case, this type of LED is for diagnostics)? Normally, on most BIOS, the type of failure can be indicated by a series of beeps (long or short), certainly more appreciated by Morse code enthusiasts...
The components that most often fail in a PC are: the CPU fan, the hard drive, the power supply, and also the capacitors that help stabilize and filter the power on the motherboard. I have noticed almost all these types of failures on several PCs.
The fan: Often too clogged or of "cheap" quality, it starts to spin unevenly and "hums".
The hard drive: Sometimes the SMART diagnostic can help predict imminent failure, but not always!
The power supply: A power supply that is overused or undersized can also "pop".
The large capacitors on the motherboard: They too can one day pass away, especially if the failure is related to poor quality power supply or an overload. It's usually easy to see, several of the (large) capacitors located around the CPU have a bulging top (sometimes even chemical leakage), but it was more visible on older motherboards equipped with large capacitors (1500 to 2700 mf/16 V). Their replacement is possible but quite difficult. I did it in the past on an old Abit BF6 board (4 caps to change!)... And then, the motherboard started working again. Thus, the Pentium 3 that was on it didn’t end up orphaned!
So, back to the issue with your PC... Even when cold, it won't start anymore... But the Power light still comes on. And on the keyboard, do the LEDs briefly light up at startup? I have seen a PC do this because, following a power outage (short circuit?), the PC wouldn’t start anymore, just the keyboard LED lit up (or maybe also the Power light). Why? Just because the user of the PC never thought to completely turn off his PC with the switch located at the back of the case. Turning it off with the Power button is not enough; otherwise, the PC's power supply remains powered. Another case giving a "similar result": A PC that wouldn't start after changing the graphics card because it was incompatible with an old GeForce FX5200 in PCI, and another one that couldn’t start anymore because the graphics card was "fried" (due to a dead fan).
So, to do a new checkup of your PC, you will do this:
- Open the PC case for a visual inspection: What is the general condition inside? Visual check of the capacitors around the CPU. None blown? The CPU fan, in good condition? Not clogged with too much dust? Normally, you try to spin the fan blades with your finger, giving them a quick rotational movement. The blades should spin quickly and stop with a slight jerking effect; otherwise, the fan is (a bit) worn out.
- For the tests, after completely shutting down the PC, you will unplug ALL internal/external peripherals (hard drive/DVD drive). If there is a graphics circuit integrated into the motherboard, connect your screen to it and then remove the graphics card from the PCI/AGP/PCI-Express slot; it could also be the cause of the problem (dead fan?). Only the keyboard and screen should remain connected to the PC for the startup test. The keyboard only for accessing the BIOS settings, as a wrong CPU configuration (setting errors in the case of overclocking) can also block the PC. On some BIOS, pressing a key (the [Insert] key on Abit) at startup (during the Power On Self Test) or holding the Reset button long resets the default values. You will also need to test the memory with MEMTEST86.
Once your PC is stripped down (without hard drive/DVD/floppy drive) and after inspecting the motherboard (dead fans or in great shape?), you can embark on other tests without risking damaging the system installed on the hard drive. You should also have a Linux LiveCD (256 MB of RAM is sufficient to run it after reconnecting the DVD). On older PCs, it sometimes happens that the battery powering the BIOS CMOS memory is worn out. But normally, a good BIOS signals problems at startup with a series of beeps...
Conclusion: Considering the indicated symptom, a sudden shutdown after about ten minutes and the need to wait for it to cool down before being able to restart suggests an anomaly detected by the BIOS, such as CPU overheating (due to poor ventilation or poor contact with the heatsink (not enough thermal paste or slipping heatsink) or a power supply issue (voltage dropping). The graphics card could also be dead, but normally it's indicated by a series of beeps at startup. YES, but now your PC won’t start anymore... So check visually all the capacitors located around the CPU on the motherboard. I hope for you that they are all intact...
What generation of motherboard is it? A recent thing or an oldie based on Pentium 2/3/4/Celeron, AMD Duron/Athlon, etc...? What brand and model? ASUS/ASROCK, Gigabyte, MSI, ECS, DFI, etc...? Or a (throttled!) branded PC from HP/Compaq, Dell, Packard Bell, etc...? When one of my old PCs wouldn't start anymore (even though it had been running just a quarter of an hour earlier), it was due to several fried capacitors. The BIOS signaled an error at restart and the PC shut down. I didn’t change the caps on that motherboard out of laziness...
...A+ ... Provide more details if you can... If it’s not the caps that are dead, there’s still hope!
... Sorry for being so brief with a lot of unnecessary chatter ...
- - - There may be life after death... But not after that of a cap! A quote from Confucius, I believe! - - -
So, your PC has reached a turning point, and now it won't start anymore (even when cold?). But there's still a bit of life in it since a light is on. Which one? Only the Power light on the case, or on the motherboard (in which case, this type of LED is for diagnostics)? Normally, on most BIOS, the type of failure can be indicated by a series of beeps (long or short), certainly more appreciated by Morse code enthusiasts...
The components that most often fail in a PC are: the CPU fan, the hard drive, the power supply, and also the capacitors that help stabilize and filter the power on the motherboard. I have noticed almost all these types of failures on several PCs.
The fan: Often too clogged or of "cheap" quality, it starts to spin unevenly and "hums".
The hard drive: Sometimes the SMART diagnostic can help predict imminent failure, but not always!
The power supply: A power supply that is overused or undersized can also "pop".
The large capacitors on the motherboard: They too can one day pass away, especially if the failure is related to poor quality power supply or an overload. It's usually easy to see, several of the (large) capacitors located around the CPU have a bulging top (sometimes even chemical leakage), but it was more visible on older motherboards equipped with large capacitors (1500 to 2700 mf/16 V). Their replacement is possible but quite difficult. I did it in the past on an old Abit BF6 board (4 caps to change!)... And then, the motherboard started working again. Thus, the Pentium 3 that was on it didn’t end up orphaned!
So, back to the issue with your PC... Even when cold, it won't start anymore... But the Power light still comes on. And on the keyboard, do the LEDs briefly light up at startup? I have seen a PC do this because, following a power outage (short circuit?), the PC wouldn’t start anymore, just the keyboard LED lit up (or maybe also the Power light). Why? Just because the user of the PC never thought to completely turn off his PC with the switch located at the back of the case. Turning it off with the Power button is not enough; otherwise, the PC's power supply remains powered. Another case giving a "similar result": A PC that wouldn't start after changing the graphics card because it was incompatible with an old GeForce FX5200 in PCI, and another one that couldn’t start anymore because the graphics card was "fried" (due to a dead fan).
So, to do a new checkup of your PC, you will do this:
- Open the PC case for a visual inspection: What is the general condition inside? Visual check of the capacitors around the CPU. None blown? The CPU fan, in good condition? Not clogged with too much dust? Normally, you try to spin the fan blades with your finger, giving them a quick rotational movement. The blades should spin quickly and stop with a slight jerking effect; otherwise, the fan is (a bit) worn out.
- For the tests, after completely shutting down the PC, you will unplug ALL internal/external peripherals (hard drive/DVD drive). If there is a graphics circuit integrated into the motherboard, connect your screen to it and then remove the graphics card from the PCI/AGP/PCI-Express slot; it could also be the cause of the problem (dead fan?). Only the keyboard and screen should remain connected to the PC for the startup test. The keyboard only for accessing the BIOS settings, as a wrong CPU configuration (setting errors in the case of overclocking) can also block the PC. On some BIOS, pressing a key (the [Insert] key on Abit) at startup (during the Power On Self Test) or holding the Reset button long resets the default values. You will also need to test the memory with MEMTEST86.
Once your PC is stripped down (without hard drive/DVD/floppy drive) and after inspecting the motherboard (dead fans or in great shape?), you can embark on other tests without risking damaging the system installed on the hard drive. You should also have a Linux LiveCD (256 MB of RAM is sufficient to run it after reconnecting the DVD). On older PCs, it sometimes happens that the battery powering the BIOS CMOS memory is worn out. But normally, a good BIOS signals problems at startup with a series of beeps...
Conclusion: Considering the indicated symptom, a sudden shutdown after about ten minutes and the need to wait for it to cool down before being able to restart suggests an anomaly detected by the BIOS, such as CPU overheating (due to poor ventilation or poor contact with the heatsink (not enough thermal paste or slipping heatsink) or a power supply issue (voltage dropping). The graphics card could also be dead, but normally it's indicated by a series of beeps at startup. YES, but now your PC won’t start anymore... So check visually all the capacitors located around the CPU on the motherboard. I hope for you that they are all intact...
What generation of motherboard is it? A recent thing or an oldie based on Pentium 2/3/4/Celeron, AMD Duron/Athlon, etc...? What brand and model? ASUS/ASROCK, Gigabyte, MSI, ECS, DFI, etc...? Or a (throttled!) branded PC from HP/Compaq, Dell, Packard Bell, etc...? When one of my old PCs wouldn't start anymore (even though it had been running just a quarter of an hour earlier), it was due to several fried capacitors. The BIOS signaled an error at restart and the PC shut down. I didn’t change the caps on that motherboard out of laziness...
...A+ ... Provide more details if you can... If it’s not the caps that are dead, there’s still hope!
... Sorry for being so brief with a lot of unnecessary chatter ...
- - - There may be life after death... But not after that of a cap! A quote from Confucius, I believe! - - -
If it still doesn't work, try a different power supply on this PC. In case the problem doesn't come
from the fans, the capacitors, the graphics card, or the memory. Testing with another power supply might
be useful, or otherwise, test the faulty PC's power supply on another PC.
You should always try to proceed by elimination to find the "faulty" component...
. . .
from the fans, the capacitors, the graphics card, or the memory. Testing with another power supply might
be useful, or otherwise, test the faulty PC's power supply on another PC.
You should always try to proceed by elimination to find the "faulty" component...
. . .
Hello,
Can you help me? My issue is that my computer starts up fine (the fans are running) but after the Windows startup screen, the screen remains black. I think it might be the processor since there was a clip to hold the cooler in place that was broken, so there was some play between the processor and the cooler. I checked the cooler as you explained, and there are no issues on that side. Could it simply be due to the thermal paste? Or is it the processor?
Thank you in advance
Best regards
Cendrine
Can you help me? My issue is that my computer starts up fine (the fans are running) but after the Windows startup screen, the screen remains black. I think it might be the processor since there was a clip to hold the cooler in place that was broken, so there was some play between the processor and the cooler. I checked the cooler as you explained, and there are no issues on that side. Could it simply be due to the thermal paste? Or is it the processor?
Thank you in advance
Best regards
Cendrine
Hello
( I apologize for this suggestion )
go to "start" then "control panel" next "power options"
and see if "turn off hard disk" says "after 10 min" replace it with "never"
and thank you
( I apologize for this suggestion )
go to "start" then "control panel" next "power options"
and see if "turn off hard disk" says "after 10 min" replace it with "never"
and thank you
Hi,
have you checked if the processor and its fan are not covered in dust? Also verified if the thermal paste under the processor hasn't dried out? If that's the case, you'll need to clean it and apply a small dab, but really just a tiny bit of new paste, without it spilling over the sides of the processor.
--
the druid without the potion.
have you checked if the processor and its fan are not covered in dust? Also verified if the thermal paste under the processor hasn't dried out? If that's the case, you'll need to clean it and apply a small dab, but really just a tiny bit of new paste, without it spilling over the sides of the processor.
--
the druid without the potion.
Hi (sorry, I'll keep it brief as I'm about to join the arms of Morpheus).
Give me some details. Your PC shuts down by itself, but after how long? When you're under Windows? When you're in the middle of action in a 3D game? etc...
Is it a problem of CPU overheating? Yeah, it's possible... In that case, it's often due to a failing fan or poor internal case ventilation (too many cables lying around preventing airflow or too many internal peripherals installed), but an undersized power supply (not providing enough power) can also cause power issues.
The BIOS of your PC can provide useful information for monitoring the situation (check my other posts on this page). Is the thermal paste to blame? Not really, if you've never removed your CPU and it's not super old, it should be in decent condition. However, if you do remove the CPU, it's true that you need to apply new thermal paste (kind of like window putty; you have to replace it every time you change the windows).
Before you rush into replacing the thermal paste, check via the BIOS:
- The CPU temperature.
- The various voltages indicated by the BIOS monitoring.
Also, do a visual inspection of the inside of your PC. No fans obstructed by cables?
No humming noise from one of the fans (not necessarily the CPU fan)? etc...
Give me some details. Your PC shuts down by itself, but after how long? When you're under Windows? When you're in the middle of action in a 3D game? etc...
Is it a problem of CPU overheating? Yeah, it's possible... In that case, it's often due to a failing fan or poor internal case ventilation (too many cables lying around preventing airflow or too many internal peripherals installed), but an undersized power supply (not providing enough power) can also cause power issues.
The BIOS of your PC can provide useful information for monitoring the situation (check my other posts on this page). Is the thermal paste to blame? Not really, if you've never removed your CPU and it's not super old, it should be in decent condition. However, if you do remove the CPU, it's true that you need to apply new thermal paste (kind of like window putty; you have to replace it every time you change the windows).
Before you rush into replacing the thermal paste, check via the BIOS:
- The CPU temperature.
- The various voltages indicated by the BIOS monitoring.
Also, do a visual inspection of the inside of your PC. No fans obstructed by cables?
No humming noise from one of the fans (not necessarily the CPU fan)? etc...
Re-hello!
Usually, the common cause of this type of problem is clogging or the beginning of malfunction (before total failure?) of the CPU fan. I’ve seen this before on an old Dell that was given to me for this reason (it shut down after several dozen minutes). It's normal, on this (old) desktop PC based on Pentium 2, Dell installed the fan the wrong way on the heatsink (it wasn't blowing cool air onto the Pentium, it was just sucking up the heat), the simple act of putting it in the usual direction fixed the problem... I've also seen a faulty fan on a graphics card, the graphics processor suffered the same fate (so the card is dead as a doornail!). Hence the importance of ensuring the "health" of the various fans in your PC...
Usually, the common cause of this type of problem is clogging or the beginning of malfunction (before total failure?) of the CPU fan. I’ve seen this before on an old Dell that was given to me for this reason (it shut down after several dozen minutes). It's normal, on this (old) desktop PC based on Pentium 2, Dell installed the fan the wrong way on the heatsink (it wasn't blowing cool air onto the Pentium, it was just sucking up the heat), the simple act of putting it in the usual direction fixed the problem... I've also seen a faulty fan on a graphics card, the graphics processor suffered the same fate (so the card is dead as a doornail!). Hence the importance of ensuring the "health" of the various fans in your PC...
Hi Benji 31, the post is old but I see that you know relatively well about computers. My Dell won't turn on, I have a LED that lights up and after 1-2 minutes, I get a series of 3 beeps then 3 beeps again for a few minutes before the computer shuts down. Do you have any idea what it could be? Is it repairable?
Thanks
Thanks
My processor is a Pentium 3, Phoenix BIOS, and the motherboard, uh, I don't know :s. I went into the BIOS and in the menu, I went to "PC Health Status" and inside there is:
"Current CPU Temp. 29°C/84°F"
"Current System Temp. 22°C/71°F"
"Current CPU FAN Speed 4615 RPM"
"Current SYS FAN Speed 0 RPM"
"Vcore 1.77 V"
"2.5V 2.54 V"
"3.3V 3.33 V"
"5V 5.12 V"
"12V 12.18 V"
"Current CPU Temp. 29°C/84°F"
"Current System Temp. 22°C/71°F"
"Current CPU FAN Speed 4615 RPM"
"Current SYS FAN Speed 0 RPM"
"Vcore 1.77 V"
"2.5V 2.54 V"
"3.3V 3.33 V"
"5V 5.12 V"
"12V 12.18 V"
So, your PC is equipped with a Pentium 3... Which frequency or generation: Katmai (in Slot1), Coppermine, Tualatin? All this gives an idea of the voltage used by the core of the processor: 2.0 v, 1.75 v, etc...
See here, for example: http://www.arcanapercipio.com/cpu/histo/intel32.php
You don't know your motherboard? Normally the brand and model are printed in large letters on the motherboard. The model is also indicated at startup, at the bottom of the screen, if detailed display has been selected in the BIOS setup and not just the manufacturer's logo display. Otherwise, download the demo of Everest Ultimate Edition here:
http://www.lavalys.com/everest-discontinued/ (it's version 4.5, I only have 4.0)
With this program, you will have maximum details about your PC: Motherboard, memory, thermal sensors, hard drive, etc...
The values you indicate are correct for a P3 over 500 MHz installed in a Socket 370 socket. Is that so? If your Pentium 3 is in Slot1, then it should operate at 2.0 volts. Otherwise, the displayed temperature is very correct. How do you obtain it? Cold, just after startup? After several minutes of operation? Or only thanks to a big 30 cm fan (speed 3) directed towards the processor, open case?
You need to check the temperature again after several minutes to see if it remains stable (just a variation of a few degrees, except for heavy load from a 3D game, for example). But in the BIOS, it can happen that the sleep mode activates on its own, preventing prolonged testing. Use Everest Ultimate Edition under Windows for longer tests (the "Sensor" option in the program).
. . .
See here, for example: http://www.arcanapercipio.com/cpu/histo/intel32.php
You don't know your motherboard? Normally the brand and model are printed in large letters on the motherboard. The model is also indicated at startup, at the bottom of the screen, if detailed display has been selected in the BIOS setup and not just the manufacturer's logo display. Otherwise, download the demo of Everest Ultimate Edition here:
http://www.lavalys.com/everest-discontinued/ (it's version 4.5, I only have 4.0)
With this program, you will have maximum details about your PC: Motherboard, memory, thermal sensors, hard drive, etc...
The values you indicate are correct for a P3 over 500 MHz installed in a Socket 370 socket. Is that so? If your Pentium 3 is in Slot1, then it should operate at 2.0 volts. Otherwise, the displayed temperature is very correct. How do you obtain it? Cold, just after startup? After several minutes of operation? Or only thanks to a big 30 cm fan (speed 3) directed towards the processor, open case?
You need to check the temperature again after several minutes to see if it remains stable (just a variation of a few degrees, except for heavy load from a 3D game, for example). But in the BIOS, it can happen that the sleep mode activates on its own, preventing prolonged testing. Use Everest Ultimate Edition under Windows for longer tests (the "Sensor" option in the program).
. . .
There is a kind of pink paste on the CPU fan spread over 2.5cm² and on the processor a kind of black/gray paste spread over about 1.5cm².
Well, personally I didn’t really follow up on the thermal paste issue, since it's like the putty for a window... If you remove a broken window to replace it, you’re supposed to also change ALL the putty that holds it in place; you can’t reuse the old one. The same goes for thermal paste! Normally, when replacing a heatsink (fan + radiator), you remove all traces of the old thermal paste to apply a new layer. All of this should be done carefully. But nothing prevents the "reckless" from putting everything back together without changing anything...
The exception is when thermal paste is replaced by adhesive thermal pads; in that case, you don’t change anything and reassemble everything as it originally was. But there are more fans for thermal paste (more effective?).
Wouldn't it be more of a pink thermal pad and a bit of gray thermal paste (more often white) on the CPU that you found? I hope you carefully reassembled the heatsink on the processor.
So, what was the health status of the whole thing? Is the processor fan running properly?
. . .
The exception is when thermal paste is replaced by adhesive thermal pads; in that case, you don’t change anything and reassemble everything as it originally was. But there are more fans for thermal paste (more effective?).
Wouldn't it be more of a pink thermal pad and a bit of gray thermal paste (more often white) on the CPU that you found? I hope you carefully reassembled the heatsink on the processor.
So, what was the health status of the whole thing? Is the processor fan running properly?
. . .
Good news, my PC turns on whenever I want and turns off whenever I want^^. I will come back to update you.
Thank you for helping me.
Thank you for helping me.
Hello,
Your solution interests me. I have the same problem with a Packard Bell Imedia PC that restarts in a loop after a few minutes of use.
I checked the system temperature (42°C to 45°C when it occurs), and the SYS FAN speed stays at zero, and I don't know if this is normal (PC bought new about 3 months ago).
Thank you for your help
Didier
Your solution interests me. I have the same problem with a Packard Bell Imedia PC that restarts in a loop after a few minutes of use.
I checked the system temperature (42°C to 45°C when it occurs), and the SYS FAN speed stays at zero, and I don't know if this is normal (PC bought new about 3 months ago).
Thank you for your help
Didier
Didier95: So if I understand correctly, your PC restarts by itself in a loop after a short period of use...
The indicated temperature is nothing to worry about (how do you get it? Is it displayed in the BIOS or in Windows using a utility, for example with Everest or Sandra)? SYS Fan Speed at zero? Well, that might mean that you don't have a fan connected to that sensor (no case fan for example), I hope it's not a malfunction of the chipset fan (or any other cooling system associated with it). Most often, HP/Compaq, Dell, Packard Bell brand PCs found in supermarkets are "consumer-grade" models, meaning they are not as capable and well-equipped as the PC that you would have assembled from a reputable motherboard at your local assembler.
First test suggested:
Often many Windows users forget (more simply, it's because they don't know they need to do this) to disable automatic restart after a system error (blue screen). So, first advice, either right-click on the My Computer icon and choose the "Properties" command from the context menu, or from the Control Panel, double-click on the "System" icon. Same for Vista or Seven! Then go to the Advanced tab and in the "Startup and Recovery > Settings > System failure" portion, uncheck the "Automatically restart" function. This will allow you to find out if you might actually have a blue screen indicating a system error, but it appears so quickly that you don't have time to read it before Windows restarts. You should also check if you haven't installed a recent driver or utility that's causing this involuntary system shutdown...
Second test suggested:
Try starting your PC with a Linux LiveCD (like those found in magazines dedicated to Linux in most good newsagents). With this type of CD, and if your PC is configured to boot from a CD-Rom as well, you should be able to run it for as long as possible until the same problem appears. If that's not the case with the Linux LiveCD, it means the problem is not hardware-related, but comes from your Windows installation. A recent driver, for example, that causes a crash? But what system do you have by the way, Vista or XP? Otherwise, also try a restart in "safe mode" (F8 key at startup)...
@+
The indicated temperature is nothing to worry about (how do you get it? Is it displayed in the BIOS or in Windows using a utility, for example with Everest or Sandra)? SYS Fan Speed at zero? Well, that might mean that you don't have a fan connected to that sensor (no case fan for example), I hope it's not a malfunction of the chipset fan (or any other cooling system associated with it). Most often, HP/Compaq, Dell, Packard Bell brand PCs found in supermarkets are "consumer-grade" models, meaning they are not as capable and well-equipped as the PC that you would have assembled from a reputable motherboard at your local assembler.
First test suggested:
Often many Windows users forget (more simply, it's because they don't know they need to do this) to disable automatic restart after a system error (blue screen). So, first advice, either right-click on the My Computer icon and choose the "Properties" command from the context menu, or from the Control Panel, double-click on the "System" icon. Same for Vista or Seven! Then go to the Advanced tab and in the "Startup and Recovery > Settings > System failure" portion, uncheck the "Automatically restart" function. This will allow you to find out if you might actually have a blue screen indicating a system error, but it appears so quickly that you don't have time to read it before Windows restarts. You should also check if you haven't installed a recent driver or utility that's causing this involuntary system shutdown...
Second test suggested:
Try starting your PC with a Linux LiveCD (like those found in magazines dedicated to Linux in most good newsagents). With this type of CD, and if your PC is configured to boot from a CD-Rom as well, you should be able to run it for as long as possible until the same problem appears. If that's not the case with the Linux LiveCD, it means the problem is not hardware-related, but comes from your Windows installation. A recent driver, for example, that causes a crash? But what system do you have by the way, Vista or XP? Otherwise, also try a restart in "safe mode" (F8 key at startup)...
@+
THANK YOU Benji31 for the time you took to type all these useful instructions.
Your explanations on this subject will certainly help me because I had a doubt about whether we could try to start a PC without thermal paste, and after reading all your messages on this page, the answer is NO, you do not start a PC without applying thermal paste.
I recovered 2 PCs yesterday that people in my neighborhood threw in the trash, and I’m trying to play MacGyver and see if they can be revived in my hands after opening their insides and diagnosing... :
- the first PC without an ethernet port was able to start after an intense dusting and installing Linux Ubuntu (now I need to figure out how to connect a PC with USB, line, and phone ports to my 5-port mini-switch for internet access ...)
- the second, more recent PC (apparently a DELL manufactured in 2006) but without RAM or hard drive has been dusted off, I installed a 1 GB memory stick, and since I had to remove the large heatsink, I still need to buy thermal paste to reattach it and start testing.
Your explanations on this subject will certainly help me because I had a doubt about whether we could try to start a PC without thermal paste, and after reading all your messages on this page, the answer is NO, you do not start a PC without applying thermal paste.
I recovered 2 PCs yesterday that people in my neighborhood threw in the trash, and I’m trying to play MacGyver and see if they can be revived in my hands after opening their insides and diagnosing... :
- the first PC without an ethernet port was able to start after an intense dusting and installing Linux Ubuntu (now I need to figure out how to connect a PC with USB, line, and phone ports to my 5-port mini-switch for internet access ...)
- the second, more recent PC (apparently a DELL manufactured in 2006) but without RAM or hard drive has been dusted off, I installed a 1 GB memory stick, and since I had to remove the large heatsink, I still need to buy thermal paste to reattach it and start testing.
Hi!
Well, obviously it's possible not to use thermal paste for
mounting the radiator on the processor, but it would certainly be risky because
there would be a risk of poor thermal exchange between the two elements,
the paste being there to compensate for differences in roughness (level of
polishing different between the radiator and the core of the processor). If everything
were super well polished (like a mirror you can even see yourself in!) and
if we also use a low clocked processor (that heats up little),
then yes, maybe we could try without thermal paste...
I've also picked up PCs from the trash... Often
left for dead by their owners, it often happens that they can
have a second life. I also recover some old PCs that are generously given to me...
How to connect an old PC without the appropriate port to ETHERNET? Maybe
with this:
https://www.pearl.fr/article/PE1104/adaptateur-reseau-usb-2-0-1
Not sure this type of adapter is 100% recognized under Linux, but I hope so. Otherwise, there's always the solution of a classic network card in PCI
or also in ISA format (only second-hand, for (very) old PCs!).
Well, obviously it's possible not to use thermal paste for
mounting the radiator on the processor, but it would certainly be risky because
there would be a risk of poor thermal exchange between the two elements,
the paste being there to compensate for differences in roughness (level of
polishing different between the radiator and the core of the processor). If everything
were super well polished (like a mirror you can even see yourself in!) and
if we also use a low clocked processor (that heats up little),
then yes, maybe we could try without thermal paste...
I've also picked up PCs from the trash... Often
left for dead by their owners, it often happens that they can
have a second life. I also recover some old PCs that are generously given to me...
How to connect an old PC without the appropriate port to ETHERNET? Maybe
with this:
https://www.pearl.fr/article/PE1104/adaptateur-reseau-usb-2-0-1
Not sure this type of adapter is 100% recognized under Linux, but I hope so. Otherwise, there's always the solution of a classic network card in PCI
or also in ISA format (only second-hand, for (very) old PCs!).
Good evening,
Thank you for the name of the adapter and the image which helps me visualize before going to a computer store.
So just to come back to thermal pastes, I found this very interesting link regarding a comparison with nothing and with 14 thermal pastes:
http://www.matbe.com
Have a nice weekend!
Thank you for the name of the adapter and the image which helps me visualize before going to a computer store.
So just to come back to thermal pastes, I found this very interesting link regarding a comparison with nothing and with 14 thermal pastes:
http://www.matbe.com
Have a nice weekend!
Hello,
I'm bumping the topic for a little issue with the XP installation...
I changed the motherboard, the other one burnt out... so I reinstalled everything, I made sure to plug everything in myself and all that. (Just to let you know that the connections and the installation are perfect) (also, new thermal paste)
Anyway, the only thing is that the CPU fan is not connected to its reserved socket because the wire is too short...
Under the BIOS, I'm at 28 degrees with a P4 at 3GHz, which isn't too bad.
After one or two minutes => shutdown..... whether during the XP installation or in the BIOS. Why? How do I fix the problem?
This is the first time this has happened to me, and I find it quite surprising.
I'm bumping the topic for a little issue with the XP installation...
I changed the motherboard, the other one burnt out... so I reinstalled everything, I made sure to plug everything in myself and all that. (Just to let you know that the connections and the installation are perfect) (also, new thermal paste)
Anyway, the only thing is that the CPU fan is not connected to its reserved socket because the wire is too short...
Under the BIOS, I'm at 28 degrees with a P4 at 3GHz, which isn't too bad.
After one or two minutes => shutdown..... whether during the XP installation or in the BIOS. Why? How do I fix the problem?
This is the first time this has happened to me, and I find it quite surprising.
Hi,
Here is a (small) late reply (just before going to sleep).
I would say that your problem might come from the fact that your CPU fan is not plugged into the
right socket. Since the motherboard monitors the rotation of the fan, if it’s not connected to the correct socket, the BIOS thinks your fan isn’t running anymore, so as a safety measure, it shuts everything down. A (temporary) workaround: plug the case fan into
the CPU fan socket. And check the results of the change made in the BIOS, especially in the section dedicated to "monitoring" temperatures/voltages/fan speeds.
Here is a (small) late reply (just before going to sleep).
I would say that your problem might come from the fact that your CPU fan is not plugged into the
right socket. Since the motherboard monitors the rotation of the fan, if it’s not connected to the correct socket, the BIOS thinks your fan isn’t running anymore, so as a safety measure, it shuts everything down. A (temporary) workaround: plug the case fan into
the CPU fan socket. And check the results of the change made in the BIOS, especially in the section dedicated to "monitoring" temperatures/voltages/fan speeds.
Well, I had the same thing happen on one of my computers! Actually, it's easy; I opened the case and put a fan next to it... now it works well and stays on!!! There you go, I hope that helps you.
Hello friends, I have roughly the same problem
Description of my PC: Shuttle SD37P2 V2
Processor: Core 2 Duo E4400 2.2GHz
Graphics card: Sapphire HD2600 Pro 512 MB
It all started with a power cut: I had turned off the machine, but that day I forgot to switch off the power button located at the back. There was a power cut while I was peacefully playing Scrabble with a friend, suddenly the power came back and in less than a second it went out again (I noticed it because the red LED of my mouse blinked). After that, the power was restored, I turned on the PC, the light came on but nothing displayed on the screen. I left it like that for 2 hours but nothing happened, so I turned it off and completely unplugged it. The next day, I turned it back on, it started but after 1 hour it shut down by itself. After that, I got blue screens every time I restarted it. I installed Ubuntu on my second hard drive just to solve the problem and it worked fine until I installed the graphics drivers and activated visual effects, after about 5 hours the PC shut down. I restarted but not even 10 minutes later it crashed (under Ubuntu), the screen froze and it did this every time. I formatted it then reinstalled XP, it also worked but as soon as the graphics drivers were installed, it also gave a blue screen after 1 hour of use. In the end, every time I restarted after 5 to 10 minutes of being off, I got blue screens. XP completely refused to work. I decided to install Ubuntu again but without success because during the installation the PC crashed at that moment; I tried four times but the same. Furious, I turned off the PC for two days, then when I turned it back on, I got a system (BIOS) message "113-B14904-X05 RV630 GDDR2_32Mx16 128b_". That's when I realized that it might be the graphics card. I opened the PC and cleaned out all the dust but still blue screen (XP) or sometimes the same system (BIOS) message. I restarted one last time but this time I went directly into the BIOS, disabled the BIOS caching, then restarted, and finally XP started. I quickly took the opportunity to install Everest and it provided me with a temperature of 56° for each core of my CPU and for the GPU 57°, as for the processor fan it doesn't monitor it. After 8 hours of use, the PC was clean and then shut down abruptly, and since then every 5 minutes, 4 minutes sometimes even just one minute or even less it shuts down. My question is, is it the graphics card or the processor? Thank you for taking the time to read my long message.
Best regards
Description of my PC: Shuttle SD37P2 V2
Processor: Core 2 Duo E4400 2.2GHz
Graphics card: Sapphire HD2600 Pro 512 MB
It all started with a power cut: I had turned off the machine, but that day I forgot to switch off the power button located at the back. There was a power cut while I was peacefully playing Scrabble with a friend, suddenly the power came back and in less than a second it went out again (I noticed it because the red LED of my mouse blinked). After that, the power was restored, I turned on the PC, the light came on but nothing displayed on the screen. I left it like that for 2 hours but nothing happened, so I turned it off and completely unplugged it. The next day, I turned it back on, it started but after 1 hour it shut down by itself. After that, I got blue screens every time I restarted it. I installed Ubuntu on my second hard drive just to solve the problem and it worked fine until I installed the graphics drivers and activated visual effects, after about 5 hours the PC shut down. I restarted but not even 10 minutes later it crashed (under Ubuntu), the screen froze and it did this every time. I formatted it then reinstalled XP, it also worked but as soon as the graphics drivers were installed, it also gave a blue screen after 1 hour of use. In the end, every time I restarted after 5 to 10 minutes of being off, I got blue screens. XP completely refused to work. I decided to install Ubuntu again but without success because during the installation the PC crashed at that moment; I tried four times but the same. Furious, I turned off the PC for two days, then when I turned it back on, I got a system (BIOS) message "113-B14904-X05 RV630 GDDR2_32Mx16 128b_". That's when I realized that it might be the graphics card. I opened the PC and cleaned out all the dust but still blue screen (XP) or sometimes the same system (BIOS) message. I restarted one last time but this time I went directly into the BIOS, disabled the BIOS caching, then restarted, and finally XP started. I quickly took the opportunity to install Everest and it provided me with a temperature of 56° for each core of my CPU and for the GPU 57°, as for the processor fan it doesn't monitor it. After 8 hours of use, the PC was clean and then shut down abruptly, and since then every 5 minutes, 4 minutes sometimes even just one minute or even less it shuts down. My question is, is it the graphics card or the processor? Thank you for taking the time to read my long message.
Best regards
Hello assmalick01 !
I'm a beginner in hardware diagnostics, but while searching with my virtual friend Google for the famous alphanumeric phrase you mentioned above, I found this:
https://www.tomshardware.com/
"aford10 08-14-2009 at 02:03:38 AM
The GDDR2 is in reference to the graphics memory. However, it apparently displays correctly and is an intermittent issue.
I would normally think it's a weak PSU not supplying enough power to boot consistently. That is a very good PSU though.
Now, I would look more towards a possible heat issue. Try reseating the video card. Open the case, blow out any dust, and try putting a fan next to your tower to keep it cool. See if that takes care of it."
- well, for the translation, basically the person says:
=> the error message indicates that it's a graphics memory card
=> it may be that your power supply isn't providing enough power to boot consistently
=> if your PSU is supplying enough power, it's probably an overheating issue, so you need to remove the video card and before putting it back, do a good dusting
=> if you have a fan, place it next to your PC tower with one side open just to test temporarily and see how long it lasts,
- well, I can imagine that it's fall now, if you have a fan in the basement, bring it out, otherwise, I don't think it’s worth putting it in a fridge or freezer ... otherwise, an open PC quickly collects dust ...
@+
Happy1789
I'm a beginner in hardware diagnostics, but while searching with my virtual friend Google for the famous alphanumeric phrase you mentioned above, I found this:
https://www.tomshardware.com/
"aford10 08-14-2009 at 02:03:38 AM
The GDDR2 is in reference to the graphics memory. However, it apparently displays correctly and is an intermittent issue.
I would normally think it's a weak PSU not supplying enough power to boot consistently. That is a very good PSU though.
Now, I would look more towards a possible heat issue. Try reseating the video card. Open the case, blow out any dust, and try putting a fan next to your tower to keep it cool. See if that takes care of it."
- well, for the translation, basically the person says:
=> the error message indicates that it's a graphics memory card
=> it may be that your power supply isn't providing enough power to boot consistently
=> if your PSU is supplying enough power, it's probably an overheating issue, so you need to remove the video card and before putting it back, do a good dusting
=> if you have a fan, place it next to your PC tower with one side open just to test temporarily and see how long it lasts,
- well, I can imagine that it's fall now, if you have a fan in the basement, bring it out, otherwise, I don't think it’s worth putting it in a fridge or freezer ... otherwise, an open PC quickly collects dust ...
@+
Happy1789
Thank you for your constructive response. Because today I turned on the computer and went into the BIOS to check the health of the PC. I observed the voltage and the temperature of the CPU, and then suddenly at 46°C the PC shut down. I concluded that there is a power supply problem, which has just been supported by your response.
I opened the PC and turned it on, and it lasted about 3 hours until I turned it off normally; it seems like it likes fresh air. But I also want to know if it's really the power cut that caused it because if that's the case, it's certain that an electronic component is fried.
A big thank you
while looking for why my computer was shutting down by itself, I accidentally came across this forum and you solved my problem; it was overheating. Now it’s doing great. I simply gave more space to my ventilation grill and everything is back to normal. Thanks a lot again; this forum is now in my favorites lol.
while looking for why my computer was shutting down by itself, I accidentally came across this forum and you solved my problem; it was overheating. Now it’s doing great. I simply gave more space to my ventilation grill and everything is back to normal. Thanks a lot again; this forum is now in my favorites lol.
Hi, thanks for helping me. I have the same problem, my PC shuts down after 10 minutes. Is there a solution without formatting? This problem happened to me after the formatting and the installation.
Hello giova !
>>> that's why this problem happened to me after formatting and installing <<<
It might be a coincidence.
In my humble opinion, take a good look at what benji31 and druite posted in their messages, particularly about proper cleaning and applying thermal paste (around 6 euros) to put between the processor and its cooler.
It might be slightly off-topic, but I would also be tempted to invite you to take a look at the following link, even though it only concerns the unexpected reboot of a machine running Windows:
https://www.commentcamarche.net/faq/3871-windows-xp-desactiver-le-redemarrage-automatique
Good luck!
>>> that's why this problem happened to me after formatting and installing <<<
It might be a coincidence.
In my humble opinion, take a good look at what benji31 and druite posted in their messages, particularly about proper cleaning and applying thermal paste (around 6 euros) to put between the processor and its cooler.
It might be slightly off-topic, but I would also be tempted to invite you to take a look at the following link, even though it only concerns the unexpected reboot of a machine running Windows:
https://www.commentcamarche.net/faq/3871-windows-xp-desactiver-le-redemarrage-automatique
Good luck!
Hi, I have two Acer laptops and about ten minutes after turning them on, they shut down suddenly. I think it's overheating, but I'm not sure. Can someone help me solve this problem? I've already disassembled everything and cleaned the fan, but the only issue might be the thermal paste, which I no longer have in stock. Thank you for your help...
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