Acer that shuts down by itself
Solved
pelo
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rharef -
rharef -
Hello,
I have a few little issues with my laptop that have been going on for at least 4 months now. Let me explain.
It started with a noise from the ventilation and overheating of the fan. Then it began to shut down, only when I was playing online. So, I vacuumed the airflow grids. Despite that, over time the phenomenon repeated itself, and in a really weird way. Sometimes it would be boiling and it wouldn't shut down, and sometimes barely turned on it would shut down.
I then took it to a repairman. He dismantled and cleaned the fan, assured me that there was some play in the fan and that sometimes it would touch but not all the time. I'm waiting to replace the fan (no money).
But since he cleaned it, it's been terrible... I tested the fan on Guild Wars (a game) to see the change and nothing, the computer just turns on or not, after 10 minutes of play it shuts down abruptly. Even if the fan isn't making noise, even if it doesn't seem hot?
When I say it shuts down abruptly, it does so suddenly like a power cut. I can turn it back on immediately, then disk scan, then no problem... Except when I start the game, it starts again.
At those times it's plugged in, but it does it on battery too.
Forgive my beginner's level, but I'm surprised why it shuts down even when cool, and why all the time since it was opened and cleaned?
The laptop is an Acer 1692 WLMI, it's 2 years old. No longer under warranty.
I have a few little issues with my laptop that have been going on for at least 4 months now. Let me explain.
It started with a noise from the ventilation and overheating of the fan. Then it began to shut down, only when I was playing online. So, I vacuumed the airflow grids. Despite that, over time the phenomenon repeated itself, and in a really weird way. Sometimes it would be boiling and it wouldn't shut down, and sometimes barely turned on it would shut down.
I then took it to a repairman. He dismantled and cleaned the fan, assured me that there was some play in the fan and that sometimes it would touch but not all the time. I'm waiting to replace the fan (no money).
But since he cleaned it, it's been terrible... I tested the fan on Guild Wars (a game) to see the change and nothing, the computer just turns on or not, after 10 minutes of play it shuts down abruptly. Even if the fan isn't making noise, even if it doesn't seem hot?
When I say it shuts down abruptly, it does so suddenly like a power cut. I can turn it back on immediately, then disk scan, then no problem... Except when I start the game, it starts again.
At those times it's plugged in, but it does it on battery too.
Forgive my beginner's level, but I'm surprised why it shuts down even when cool, and why all the time since it was opened and cleaned?
The laptop is an Acer 1692 WLMI, it's 2 years old. No longer under warranty.
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Hello
I have been having the same issue with my Acer 5610Z for a few months.
When I bought it two years ago, it made no noise and hardly got hot, but over time, it started making noise (the fan) and heating up, to the point where I couldn't keep it on my lap.
Well, after reading the post, I learned a lot of things and I want to thank you for that.
Here's what I did:
Removed the screws from the widest rear panel, where the fan is located
Removed the panel
The fan is secured with two screws (do not unscrew the small screws)
Removed the dust clogged in the slot (it was so dense that at first glance it looked like a sponge put there by the manufacturer, but in fact, it's a buildup of dust)
Vacuumed the dust with a vacuum cleaner and closed it up
This operation solved the problem, my PC has become silent again, it no longer overheats and no longer shuts down.
Good luck to all.
I have been having the same issue with my Acer 5610Z for a few months.
When I bought it two years ago, it made no noise and hardly got hot, but over time, it started making noise (the fan) and heating up, to the point where I couldn't keep it on my lap.
Well, after reading the post, I learned a lot of things and I want to thank you for that.
Here's what I did:
Removed the screws from the widest rear panel, where the fan is located
Removed the panel
The fan is secured with two screws (do not unscrew the small screws)
Removed the dust clogged in the slot (it was so dense that at first glance it looked like a sponge put there by the manufacturer, but in fact, it's a buildup of dust)
Vacuumed the dust with a vacuum cleaner and closed it up
This operation solved the problem, my PC has become silent again, it no longer overheats and no longer shuts down.
Good luck to all.
I also have an ACER 7720G that shuts down by itself after a while.
I have software to monitor the temperature and I saw that the processor was above 60° and the GPU (the heart of the processor) was at 70°.
My laptop is 8 months old, after reading your comments I decided to dismantle the cover where the cooling system is located and I saw a HUGE layer of dust blocking the ventilation I cleaned everything with a toothbrush and cotton swabs.
Result: my GPU now runs at less than 58° and the 2 processors at 45°.
So thanks to everyone
I have software to monitor the temperature and I saw that the processor was above 60° and the GPU (the heart of the processor) was at 70°.
My laptop is 8 months old, after reading your comments I decided to dismantle the cover where the cooling system is located and I saw a HUGE layer of dust blocking the ventilation I cleaned everything with a toothbrush and cotton swabs.
Result: my GPU now runs at less than 58° and the 2 processors at 45°.
So thanks to everyone
Here too I feel like laughing a bit^^
"I have software to check the temperature and I saw that the process was above 60° and the GPU (heart of the processor) was at 70°."
Nothing to do with the heart of the processor, the processor is the "heart" of the PC if I may say... It is also called CPU (Central Processing Unit).
The GPU = Graphical Processing Unit, which is none other than the processor of the graphics card, and not the "heart" of the processor -_-"
I've always said that Acer had the best value for money, and my teachers (I'm in computer science) have always said the same, and it's true; for example, my brother has had an Acer laptop for 5 years and he has never had the slightest problem, and I know others too...
My fiancée once had a problem with her Acer; her PC suddenly shut down and wouldn't turn back on. I removed the battery and put it back, and it turned back on. Her PC was not overheating (between 45° and 55°, so no problem), but that only happened once, at the beginning when she had her PC. Now it's been almost 2 years and no more problems.
Yesterday, it was my turn while I was playing; I really don't understand why since mine, Acer Aspire 7520G, tends to overheat easily, especially at one point (since I cleaned it, it's been better) it would reach 90° without me doing anything special, but I removed Vista and put Windows XP, then I removed XP and installed Windows Trust. Yesterday there was a problem, and I don't really know where it came from because the PC was not overheating, so I'm not sure where it came from.
Especially since when there is overheating, a blue screen from Windows appears saying there's a hardware problem, and not just shutting down like that.
So I am skeptical that it is due to overheating...
Otherwise, if you're afraid of overheating, I bought a USB fan for laptops; it sits under the laptop and it works pretty well...
--
I was thinking that the best would be to pretend to be deaf-mute.
The speed of light is faster than that of sound, that's why we appear intelligent before we appear stupid.
"I have software to check the temperature and I saw that the process was above 60° and the GPU (heart of the processor) was at 70°."
Nothing to do with the heart of the processor, the processor is the "heart" of the PC if I may say... It is also called CPU (Central Processing Unit).
The GPU = Graphical Processing Unit, which is none other than the processor of the graphics card, and not the "heart" of the processor -_-"
I've always said that Acer had the best value for money, and my teachers (I'm in computer science) have always said the same, and it's true; for example, my brother has had an Acer laptop for 5 years and he has never had the slightest problem, and I know others too...
My fiancée once had a problem with her Acer; her PC suddenly shut down and wouldn't turn back on. I removed the battery and put it back, and it turned back on. Her PC was not overheating (between 45° and 55°, so no problem), but that only happened once, at the beginning when she had her PC. Now it's been almost 2 years and no more problems.
Yesterday, it was my turn while I was playing; I really don't understand why since mine, Acer Aspire 7520G, tends to overheat easily, especially at one point (since I cleaned it, it's been better) it would reach 90° without me doing anything special, but I removed Vista and put Windows XP, then I removed XP and installed Windows Trust. Yesterday there was a problem, and I don't really know where it came from because the PC was not overheating, so I'm not sure where it came from.
Especially since when there is overheating, a blue screen from Windows appears saying there's a hardware problem, and not just shutting down like that.
So I am skeptical that it is due to overheating...
Otherwise, if you're afraid of overheating, I bought a USB fan for laptops; it sits under the laptop and it works pretty well...
--
I was thinking that the best would be to pretend to be deaf-mute.
The speed of light is faster than that of sound, that's why we appear intelligent before we appear stupid.
95% of the PCs I fix are ACER, that's a reflection of my experience. Stop talking nonsense, ACER has the worst price-quality ratio and it's even truer for laptops. They flood the market with very low-end machines filled with subpar Chinese components that don't last over time.
Honestly, change your direction, you won't get far by spouting such nonsense.
Honestly, change your direction, you won't get far by spouting such nonsense.
lol Rootlinux
you must work at Acer's customer service, right?
personally, I bought my first laptop by chance and according to my means. well, an Acer, back in 2002. nowadays I’m starting to collect because I have 4 Acers including my favorite, the 9920 with a 20-inch screen.
anyway, these 4 computers are still perfectly functional, even the oldest. I have never had a hardware failure.
furthermore, the oldest one (2002) runs every day for 12 hours a day connected to the internet, the next one from 2005 was inherited by my son and likewise it runs every day on online games like Counter Strike, TF2, and COD4. (okay, at an adapted resolution depending on the game's requirements without looking bad) and the other 2 are used for work, except for the 9920 which, in addition to work, is also used for online gaming.
From experience, which is not mine but that of my work neighbor, who is a repairman for ALL brands, I can tell you the 2 brands of laptops that come to him most often and for which parts can only be replaced with their brand parts, which cost 3 times more. the brands not mentioned rhyme with TRASH
honestly, you will likely find more people satisfied with Acer than dissatisfied.
you must work at Acer's customer service, right?
personally, I bought my first laptop by chance and according to my means. well, an Acer, back in 2002. nowadays I’m starting to collect because I have 4 Acers including my favorite, the 9920 with a 20-inch screen.
anyway, these 4 computers are still perfectly functional, even the oldest. I have never had a hardware failure.
furthermore, the oldest one (2002) runs every day for 12 hours a day connected to the internet, the next one from 2005 was inherited by my son and likewise it runs every day on online games like Counter Strike, TF2, and COD4. (okay, at an adapted resolution depending on the game's requirements without looking bad) and the other 2 are used for work, except for the 9920 which, in addition to work, is also used for online gaming.
From experience, which is not mine but that of my work neighbor, who is a repairman for ALL brands, I can tell you the 2 brands of laptops that come to him most often and for which parts can only be replaced with their brand parts, which cost 3 times more. the brands not mentioned rhyme with TRASH
honestly, you will likely find more people satisfied with Acer than dissatisfied.
I had the same problem with my ACER 5100, but since yesterday everything has been fine since I read your ad.
I didn't hesitate, I took a small screwdriver and I removed the plate under the computer, and surprise! I discovered that the ventilation was blocked by a thick layer of dust and then I said bingo!!!! I took my vacuum cleaner and I cleaned it.
Since yesterday my computer has been working wonderfully well, it hasn't stopped once and I can put it on my lap without it burning me.
Thank you.
</code>
I didn't hesitate, I took a small screwdriver and I removed the plate under the computer, and surprise! I discovered that the ventilation was blocked by a thick layer of dust and then I said bingo!!!! I took my vacuum cleaner and I cleaned it.
Since yesterday my computer has been working wonderfully well, it hasn't stopped once and I can put it on my lap without it burning me.
Thank you.
</code>
Hello
This problem is recurring across all brands. Their quality has, in my opinion, NOTHING to do with it.
Of course, it is absolutely necessary to clean the fan and the radiator once a year, as it's unimaginable to see the dust that accumulates there!
ALSO, for the sake of saving TIME, there is no longer any thermal paste but rather a thermal conductive "pad" of rubber between the processor and its radiator; over time (1 year or even less if gaming and the processor is stressed), this pad gets "compressed" because if you think your processor stays at 40/60 degrees, you're mistaken!
The radiator is at this temperature BUT the core of the processor is often over 80 °C, which heats up the PAD that gradually compresses, it crushes!
The manufacturers know this, which is why the radiators are mounted on springs supposedly to compensate for this! Except that this is far from perfect over time.
So take advantage of this to gently lift the radiator, and directly on top of the processor, put a bit of cooling paste right in the center of the processor! Not too much; these pastes are perfect insulators, so it’s safe but there’s no need to put too much as it only serves BETWEEN the radiator and the small surface of the processor lid. DEMAND a silicone paste as these are the only ones that do not dry out over time, even at 100°C!
Here’s the most important thing to do
Often, modern versions have fan SPEED management and it doesn’t work well; it’s very variable but has been observed many times.
The solution is simple but requires a universal controller (€10) and a soldering iron!
We need to find out if the command is made by a + or a - (plus or minus); generally, it’s by the PLUS (+)
Once this is found (the fans have 3 wires), only the red one is generally controlled by this VARIABLE plus (+).
We look for a permanent PLUS of 10 to 12 Volts in the PC, which is quite easy to find on tantalum capacitors (small black rectangles with a marking (a white stripe); we connect one of the wires (the black) of the controller to ground (the processor radiator is generally grounded or the shielding of a USB port), then with the other wire (Red) we look for a permanent positive; once found, we connect this point through a resistor of 47 to 100 ohms (yellow violet black or brown black brown for 100 Ohms); a 1/6 watt resistor is sufficient because there's often little space.
Thus, it will run slowly PERMANENTLY, no more overheating even if there is an erratic fault in the control circuit! This is NOT dangerous and has allowed me to permanently eliminate these very annoying breakdowns on many PCs returned for manufacturer warranty and reformatted for NOTHING!
Now you need to know how to solder with a fine tip and properly insulate with insulation (like scoubidou wire); give it a try, it’s the only solution I’ve found. Their BIOS stories... Not a manufacturing defect, it’s nonsense.
It’s a pity that this regulation is done by the processor for the sake of saving, because I suppose that when it gets too hot, it requests cooling, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t.
It’s a bit hard for some, but not dangerous. Have it done if you don’t feel capable, which I can understand.
There you go, the consumption is around 50 milliamperes, knowing that a PC consumes on average 2 amperes on its battery, it doesn’t change its autonomy.
Simple is best
Have a good day, sorry for this long post.
It can change your life.
This problem is recurring across all brands. Their quality has, in my opinion, NOTHING to do with it.
Of course, it is absolutely necessary to clean the fan and the radiator once a year, as it's unimaginable to see the dust that accumulates there!
ALSO, for the sake of saving TIME, there is no longer any thermal paste but rather a thermal conductive "pad" of rubber between the processor and its radiator; over time (1 year or even less if gaming and the processor is stressed), this pad gets "compressed" because if you think your processor stays at 40/60 degrees, you're mistaken!
The radiator is at this temperature BUT the core of the processor is often over 80 °C, which heats up the PAD that gradually compresses, it crushes!
The manufacturers know this, which is why the radiators are mounted on springs supposedly to compensate for this! Except that this is far from perfect over time.
So take advantage of this to gently lift the radiator, and directly on top of the processor, put a bit of cooling paste right in the center of the processor! Not too much; these pastes are perfect insulators, so it’s safe but there’s no need to put too much as it only serves BETWEEN the radiator and the small surface of the processor lid. DEMAND a silicone paste as these are the only ones that do not dry out over time, even at 100°C!
Here’s the most important thing to do
Often, modern versions have fan SPEED management and it doesn’t work well; it’s very variable but has been observed many times.
The solution is simple but requires a universal controller (€10) and a soldering iron!
We need to find out if the command is made by a + or a - (plus or minus); generally, it’s by the PLUS (+)
Once this is found (the fans have 3 wires), only the red one is generally controlled by this VARIABLE plus (+).
We look for a permanent PLUS of 10 to 12 Volts in the PC, which is quite easy to find on tantalum capacitors (small black rectangles with a marking (a white stripe); we connect one of the wires (the black) of the controller to ground (the processor radiator is generally grounded or the shielding of a USB port), then with the other wire (Red) we look for a permanent positive; once found, we connect this point through a resistor of 47 to 100 ohms (yellow violet black or brown black brown for 100 Ohms); a 1/6 watt resistor is sufficient because there's often little space.
Thus, it will run slowly PERMANENTLY, no more overheating even if there is an erratic fault in the control circuit! This is NOT dangerous and has allowed me to permanently eliminate these very annoying breakdowns on many PCs returned for manufacturer warranty and reformatted for NOTHING!
Now you need to know how to solder with a fine tip and properly insulate with insulation (like scoubidou wire); give it a try, it’s the only solution I’ve found. Their BIOS stories... Not a manufacturing defect, it’s nonsense.
It’s a pity that this regulation is done by the processor for the sake of saving, because I suppose that when it gets too hot, it requests cooling, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t.
It’s a bit hard for some, but not dangerous. Have it done if you don’t feel capable, which I can understand.
There you go, the consumption is around 50 milliamperes, knowing that a PC consumes on average 2 amperes on its battery, it doesn’t change its autonomy.
Simple is best
Have a good day, sorry for this long post.
It can change your life.
Thank you, Roger
On ACER 5102
I tried all the methods which took me a lot of time and disappointments: dusting, replacing the thermal paste with Arctic to no avail
So I soldered the red wire of the fan to a + (3.5v in this case) on the terminal of a tantalum
without placing a resistor, since the fan was powered at the same level.
And it works
My heartfelt thanks
Dominique
On ACER 5102
I tried all the methods which took me a lot of time and disappointments: dusting, replacing the thermal paste with Arctic to no avail
So I soldered the red wire of the fan to a + (3.5v in this case) on the terminal of a tantalum
without placing a resistor, since the fan was powered at the same level.
And it works
My heartfelt thanks
Dominique
Lordi shuts down because the fan is full of dirt, causing the processor to overheat (exceeding 70 degrees), and as a safety measure, the laptop shuts down.
Therefore, the fan needs to be cleaned, and if the problem persists, the processor's temperature should be adjusted using the rmclock software.
I hope this helps a lot of people.
Otherwise, it could be a problem with the battery or the power cord.
Therefore, the fan needs to be cleaned, and if the problem persists, the processor's temperature should be adjusted using the rmclock software.
I hope this helps a lot of people.
Otherwise, it could be a problem with the battery or the power cord.
Just to clarify, a laptop doesn't shut down because it reaches 70°C lol, that's an average temperature midway through operation. It's actually around (depending on the model) above 90°C or even 100°C that a PC goes into safety mode and powers off. It's the current temperature you should rely on, not the one you think you see at a given moment, 10 seconds after you've closed your heavy application.
Hi, for Acer laptops that shut down by themselves due to overheating, here's a tip: elevate it so that air can circulate underneath the laptop. Additionally, if possible, have a fan (a classic one, that you place in the house) directed towards the laptop... it will heat up less. That's what I've been doing since I moved to an island (between 25 and 35 degrees all year round).
I'm having the same problem with my Acer laptop. I bought a tablet and nothing works, it still overheats and shuts down. I took it to a repair shop, and they cleaned it and applied thermal paste, and once again, nothing has changed. I'm wondering what to do now. A friend had the same issue and it turned out to be his hard drive. He replaced it, and now everything works perfectly.
hello.
How it works: laptop cooling
Today, almost as powerful as desktop models, laptops sometimes have overheating issues. Explanations and solutions.
Without a doubt, heat is the sworn enemy of your laptop. In all computers, the main components - hard drive, reader or burner, RAM, and especially the processor - indeed generate a lot of heat. But unlike desktops, which have a large space that allows for effective cooling, all the components of a laptop are cramped together.
If you ask it to give its best for an extended period (when playing, for example), the heat generated increases... and troubles begin: slowdowns, freezes, and restarts become your lot. Fortunately, against these heat bursts, laptops have several devices. Most models are equipped with a fan that starts blowing air outwards as soon as the internal temperature rises.
The downside of this fan is that it is small and therefore struggles with the task. This often leads to significant noise discomfort. Not to mention that the increased power consumption that comes with using a fan reduces the battery life by draining the precious energy stored in the battery.
How it works: laptop cooling
Today, almost as powerful as desktop models, laptops sometimes have overheating issues. Explanations and solutions.
Without a doubt, heat is the sworn enemy of your laptop. In all computers, the main components - hard drive, reader or burner, RAM, and especially the processor - indeed generate a lot of heat. But unlike desktops, which have a large space that allows for effective cooling, all the components of a laptop are cramped together.
If you ask it to give its best for an extended period (when playing, for example), the heat generated increases... and troubles begin: slowdowns, freezes, and restarts become your lot. Fortunately, against these heat bursts, laptops have several devices. Most models are equipped with a fan that starts blowing air outwards as soon as the internal temperature rises.
The downside of this fan is that it is small and therefore struggles with the task. This often leads to significant noise discomfort. Not to mention that the increased power consumption that comes with using a fan reduces the battery life by draining the precious energy stored in the battery.
Hello everyone...
Well, I'm joining the community of "Acer that shuts down by itself."
Like with you, it's been doing this for me since December, I believe...
But don't you find it strange that this happens to all Acer models, old or new, and that this epidemic kind of started around the same time more or less??
I would have thought it might be some sort of virus that we've all contracted for these laptops.
I'm going to do some research on my side...
Well, I'm joining the community of "Acer that shuts down by itself."
Like with you, it's been doing this for me since December, I believe...
But don't you find it strange that this happens to all Acer models, old or new, and that this epidemic kind of started around the same time more or less??
I would have thought it might be some sort of virus that we've all contracted for these laptops.
I'm going to do some research on my side...
Same problem for 2 years with my Acer laptop, every time I played a video game it was the end, my Acer overheats, the fan makes noise and after a while it becomes completely hot and turns itself off.
I had a 3-year warranty, so I sent it back for warranty service, they changed the fan and it worked again... for 6 months and then the same thing happened again!! Same problem, I sent it back for the second time just before my warranty ended, telling them that this had already happened to me so they better fix the problem and not just change the fan like they did before...
Result today same problem again!! So ACER is done, my laptop is 3 and a half years old and I've just ordered a DELL XPS to replace it.
While waiting to receive it, I prop up the laptop and put an ice cube tray wrapped in a cloth under the hottest part of my laptop... it allows me to stay on my laptop for 1 to 2 hours before it turns off.
Good luck and don't hesitate to send yours back for warranty...
I had a 3-year warranty, so I sent it back for warranty service, they changed the fan and it worked again... for 6 months and then the same thing happened again!! Same problem, I sent it back for the second time just before my warranty ended, telling them that this had already happened to me so they better fix the problem and not just change the fan like they did before...
Result today same problem again!! So ACER is done, my laptop is 3 and a half years old and I've just ordered a DELL XPS to replace it.
While waiting to receive it, I prop up the laptop and put an ice cube tray wrapped in a cloth under the hottest part of my laptop... it allows me to stay on my laptop for 1 to 2 hours before it turns off.
Good luck and don't hesitate to send yours back for warranty...
Hello,
I have the same problem. After a long moment of reflection, I concluded that it is indeed a processor overheating issue, so a ventilation problem. And indeed, I installed my laptop in a fridge, and it no longer turns off, whether I'm playing a game or whatever; I even managed to install Windows Vista on it, while outside the fridge it shuts down during the loading of the files necessary for the installation. So there you go, maybe changing the fan will resolve the issue... what do you think?
I have the same problem. After a long moment of reflection, I concluded that it is indeed a processor overheating issue, so a ventilation problem. And indeed, I installed my laptop in a fridge, and it no longer turns off, whether I'm playing a game or whatever; I even managed to install Windows Vista on it, while outside the fridge it shuts down during the loading of the files necessary for the installation. So there you go, maybe changing the fan will resolve the issue... what do you think?
Good evening, I have the same issue with my Acer 5630, it shuts down by itself about twice a day, preferably when I'm typing my notes in Word... grrrrrrrrr rhaaaaaaa anyway, it's frustrating, and on top of that, restarting it involves all the system checks (I've stopped doing that since it seems pointless), except that everything I was doing (media player, internet link...) is gone...
If anyone finds a solution... or an explanation?
If anyone finds a solution... or an explanation?
Hello there, well it seems I'm not the only one, my mother bought an Acer Aspire 5610 last year and told me it was shutting down on its own. She brought it to me yesterday for me to fix since I'm a computer technician. So yesterday I ran some tests, pushed it to the limit for two hours and it didn't shut down, and the processor temperature was fine. I then updated all the drivers, Windows, viruses, anti-spyware, etc. After that, I started a disk defragmentation and went to bed. When I got up, the laptop was off. Before leaving for work this morning, I booted it in "DOS" mode and ran a program in a loop to stress the processor without the operating system. This will help determine if it's a hardware or software problem. I'll continue my tests and keep you updated.
Hi, I have the same problem. It’s been going on for 3 days and it's really annoying! The PC is two and a half years old and has already been returned under warranty because the motherboard burned out...
Whenever I play, I feel like the PC is overheating...
I tried removing the covers, it's worse; it must be designed for airflow to follow a certain path.
In the Epowermanager truck, I'm going to try to set the processor speed a bit lower; maybe that'll help... Otherwise, does anyone have a solution? Like installing the PC in a fridge for example.
Whenever I play, I feel like the PC is overheating...
I tried removing the covers, it's worse; it must be designed for airflow to follow a certain path.
In the Epowermanager truck, I'm going to try to set the processor speed a bit lower; maybe that'll help... Otherwise, does anyone have a solution? Like installing the PC in a fridge for example.
Re hi everyone, that is all those who find themselves in the same situation as me!!
I would like to know if any of you have found a solution for our dear Acer PCs!!!
This situation is really starting to annoy me and I think you understand me! I'm thinking of switching to Apple if this situation doesn't get resolved!
Thank you all
Léa
I would like to know if any of you have found a solution for our dear Acer PCs!!!
This situation is really starting to annoy me and I think you understand me! I'm thinking of switching to Apple if this situation doesn't get resolved!
Thank you all
Léa
Good idea Doum, but I don't think it's an operating system program... I already tested this hypothesis while working with a Live Linux CD, it still shuts down... but keep us updated please...
Hello, I had the same problem as you with a Packard Bell (2 years old), it was shutting down suddenly on its own, always having to turn it back on. I then realized it was due to my power cable... I went and bought another one (a universal cable: €70!!!!) and for the past week, I haven't had this problem anymore! There you go, hope this helps you!
Hello, I saw that there was no solution for overheating computers, but as for power cuts, it's simply the temperature. I did some tests and put my fan, which blows the hardest and coldest, on my pros... and everything is fine. I took the fan from another PC that I needed to cool down my graphics card, which was also overheating and causing my computer to crash...yes yes I know I write badly, but mainly these are heat problems... think about helping them as much as possible AND NOT WITH A FRIDGE because that would damage your fridge or the PC ^^ and dust is never too much; it often acts as a good friend that protects against static electricity we have on us... anyway, I won't write more; it would be a burden for you ^^ on that note, this seems superrr hehehe good luck to them, we open our PCs at your screwdrivers.........
Hi, for your desktop computer problem, if I may, I don't know much about laptops.
So, remove the BIOS (it's a component that looks like a battery next to your RAM sticks) and be gentle. This helps to discharge the computer of all its electricity; in 2 minutes, it's done. Put it back and try to start your computer. If that doesn't work and you're out of warranty, remove the components one by one while trying to start the computer. You will hear beeps according to the number; go online and check the number of beeps your computer made. Based on the beeps, you'll find the resolution to your problem. It could be your graphics card or even your RAM sticks, etc.
There you go, I hope I helped you. Let me know if it worked for you; it did for me! =) ++
So, remove the BIOS (it's a component that looks like a battery next to your RAM sticks) and be gentle. This helps to discharge the computer of all its electricity; in 2 minutes, it's done. Put it back and try to start your computer. If that doesn't work and you're out of warranty, remove the components one by one while trying to start the computer. You will hear beeps according to the number; go online and check the number of beeps your computer made. Based on the beeps, you'll find the resolution to your problem. It could be your graphics card or even your RAM sticks, etc.
There you go, I hope I helped you. Let me know if it worked for you; it did for me! =) ++
Eeeh lol I kind of want to laugh right now: So, removing the BIOS (it's a component that looks like a battery next to your RAM sticks).
Since when does the BIOS look like a battery? Oo, the BIOS, Basic Input/Output System, or in French, Système de Base d'Entrée/Sortie (multiple possible translations), has nothing to do with a battery, it's a CHIP and it's square! It's usually marked AMI or AWARD on it, those are the 2 largest families of BIOS, there are also Phoenix but it's less common, generally (I think) Acer has Phoenix-type BIOS (that's what I have anyway).
Here's what a BIOS looks like: http://www.gdevnet.it/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/bios.jpg
What you say looks like a battery is nothing... but a battery simply^^ It's the BIOS battery; if you remove it, all the settings in your BIOS will be erased and reset to 0.
Here's a picture showing the BIOS and its battery:
http://www.dugied.net/hardware2007/sites/bar/Images/bios.jpg
--
I was thinking that the best would be to pretend to be a deaf-mute.
The speed of light is faster than that of sound, that’s why we seem smart before we seem dumb.
Since when does the BIOS look like a battery? Oo, the BIOS, Basic Input/Output System, or in French, Système de Base d'Entrée/Sortie (multiple possible translations), has nothing to do with a battery, it's a CHIP and it's square! It's usually marked AMI or AWARD on it, those are the 2 largest families of BIOS, there are also Phoenix but it's less common, generally (I think) Acer has Phoenix-type BIOS (that's what I have anyway).
Here's what a BIOS looks like: http://www.gdevnet.it/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/bios.jpg
What you say looks like a battery is nothing... but a battery simply^^ It's the BIOS battery; if you remove it, all the settings in your BIOS will be erased and reset to 0.
Here's a picture showing the BIOS and its battery:
http://www.dugied.net/hardware2007/sites/bar/Images/bios.jpg
--
I was thinking that the best would be to pretend to be a deaf-mute.
The speed of light is faster than that of sound, that’s why we seem smart before we seem dumb.
Hello, I have an Acer Aspire 7520G and it keeps shutting down, it's overheating and making a disturbing noise... as soon as I watch a video or anything else...
I cleaned the fan but it’s still overheating
but the strangest thing is that it doesn’t shut down when I remove my power cable
I'm so frustrated!!!!!!!!!! help me
My laptop is only 4 and a half months old!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I cleaned the fan but it’s still overheating
but the strangest thing is that it doesn’t shut down when I remove my power cable
I'm so frustrated!!!!!!!!!! help me
My laptop is only 4 and a half months old!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi,
I confirm what Ludo says.
Mine went to the service center in April, they updated the BIOS. (I suppose they cleaned it well too)
It was fine until about 2-3 weeks ago when suddenly, bam, it relapsed, turning off all the time.
Before bringing it back, I opened it, cleared the dust from the fan and around...
Miraculously, it started working again. I launched video, music, Firefox, and photos at the same time, and it barely reached 40 degrees whereas before it could go up to 80 or more and then shut down...
I confirm what Ludo says.
Mine went to the service center in April, they updated the BIOS. (I suppose they cleaned it well too)
It was fine until about 2-3 weeks ago when suddenly, bam, it relapsed, turning off all the time.
Before bringing it back, I opened it, cleared the dust from the fan and around...
Miraculously, it started working again. I launched video, music, Firefox, and photos at the same time, and it barely reached 40 degrees whereas before it could go up to 80 or more and then shut down...
I also bought an Acer Aspire 5720, and when I play online or browse the internet for about 30 minutes or more, my laptop gets hot around the fan and shuts down by itself. I can only turn it back on when it cools down. Should I buy a fan to solve this problem? I don't want to waste my money for nothing. I noticed that on my desktop PC, the fan runs very fast and my PC stays cool; it's so different from the laptop, and I have many questions. Please help me.
Install Speedfan (freeware), it will give you your temperature.
I recommend cleaning the fan, it might just be that. (for me it was that and it's back to normal)
For your information, when it was shutting down by itself, Speedfan was measuring around 60 when idle and then it went up to 70, 80, etc... Now I am at 30....
I recommend cleaning the fan, it might just be that. (for me it was that and it's back to normal)
For your information, when it was shutting down by itself, Speedfan was measuring around 60 when idle and then it went up to 70, 80, etc... Now I am at 30....
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Problem solved thanks to you ;-)