Backlit "black" screen, no menu - Samsung Odyssey G9
SefyuIziLife Posted messages 1 Status Membre -
Hello, I hope you're doing well.
I'm reaching out to you because I have a problem with a screen, the Samsung Odyssey G9 (which has a bad reputation). Here's the issue I'm facing (or rather what my father encountered): while gaming, the screen goes black (he can't remember if it was really black or black with the backlight active). When we turn it on, after a few seconds, the backlight activates, but the menu does not open. On our end, nothing displays. The screen is detected by our PCs and we can drag windows onto it, that's it... We've tested all the ports and used different cables, but nothing works. We feel like there's no system, not even the "popup" to indicate the HDMI, DP mode (when it scans the sources), etc. By holding down the button, the screen turns off. That's about all we can do right now.
My father gave it to me (and he took the very latest, the Neo G9 PS: he apparently has the same issues...). Our screen is no longer under warranty, and I don't want to buy a new motherboard or power supply. I want to study, understand, and solve the problem myself to learn, not just buy a whole part and replace it (especially since I have a 50/50 chance if it's not the screen's ribbons or something else...).
In terms of equipment, I have an oscilloscope (I just need to find it, but it shouldn't be far), I can desolder, solder, etc. I have a thermal camera. So, having the chance to have all this, I should be able to do something. My father thinks it’s the power supply, I lean more towards the motherboard. But we’ll need to check both.
A bit more detail:
╔═══════ The Screen ═══════╗
╠ Model: C49G95TSSU
╠ Model Code: LC49G95TSSUXEN
╠ Type Number: C49G95TSS
╚════════════════════╝
╔═══════ The Motherboard ═══════╗
╠ I see "two models", I'm not really sure, I'll let you check the photos.
╠ There's BN62-00917A on the metal plate and another reference on the label on the PCB (see photo "motherboard #2").
╚════════════════════════╝
╔═══════ Power Supply ═══════╗
╠ Model: P22020N_RHS
╚═══════════════════════╝
I cannot send the photos as attachments unfortunately, they are way too heavy and the resolution is too high. Therefore, I'm sharing my images via this link: https://kdrive.subigrkeys.fr/app/share/1105655/5cee06fd-98cf-463a-b880-b8a38481c0a1
The purpose of my post is to repair it myself, but also to know your opinion, your advice, and your experience. I would like to know, for example, here what is most likely to be causing the problem. As I investigate, I will add photos, discuss, and test on my side. I should note that I don’t have a lot of knowledge about electronics, I have some notions, but that's it. I'm going into a BTS CIEL (Cybersecurity, Computer Science and Networks, Electronics, option Computer and Network), and I've always wanted to learn and fix things myself (like my father does for absolutely everything, but here it's more complicated for us).
Thank you in advance for your reading and responses, and I wish you all a very nice day.
2 réponses
Hello!
Great project, but you might quickly run into complications: non-through components can't be changed with your soldering iron. Also, I couldn't find the datasheet, so you might have to hope that the support sends it to you.
I just saw the photos, and you've only scratched the surface; you haven't completely disassembled it, but take this power supply apart: there are big capacitors.
In my view, forget the hardware.
The only interesting avenue is software; check this out C49G95TSSU | Samsung Support HK_EN
- You have the complete manual to attempt a reset, change parameters, try to revive it by legal means
- You even have the software to update the firmware
Don't forget that there are electronics experts who have the tools and skills to diagnose and repair your screen for much less than a used screen of this type.
The GAFAM may not have oil, but they have data!
Can you feel my Big Data?
Sacrifice some freedoms for more security, and you lose them ALL.
ALL YOUR DATABASE ARE BELONG TO US
Hello everyone,
I think I'm experiencing the same problem as you. Last week I came back from vacation and:
-
Backlight functional, but black display on startup:
- When powering on, the backlight turns on normally, but the display remains black (no image visible, not even the OSD menu).
- After several restarts or unplugging/replugging the power supply, the screen eventually displays correctly.
-
Brief horizontal white bands:
- For about 0.5 to 1 second right after powering on, brief horizontal white bands appear on the screen.
- These bands are only visible at the very beginning and disappear once the screen starts up correctly.
-
Unable to access OSD menu:
- When the screen remains black (inactive display), it is impossible to access the OSD menu through the physical buttons.
- Once the screen starts up correctly, access to the OSD menu is possible, and the screen functions normally.
Hello, thanks for your message!
I figured as much, I haven't taken the motherboard apart yet (in the sense of removing the cover). I'm also wondering why it would suddenly fail. I'm going to try to contact them to get some documents, even though I don't have high hopes, but without trying, we won't know.
I found some datasheets for “similar” motherboards, I'm going to take a quick look at them.
The issue is that to perform a reset or firmware update, the screen needs to work (so I can access the menu) to make the update, but it was already up to date because I had done it.
In the meantime, have a great day :)
It happens often, especially with components pushed to their limits.
The Odyssey G9 is still an exceptional screen by today’s standards.
I had a similar experience with one of the first 120Hz nVidia 3D Vision screens; the experience was great as long as it worked. It was also known for failing early, and since I bought it second-hand, I thought I could escape that. One month, seven days a week, killed it, certainly due to a single faulty component, but I don’t have the skills to fix it. Once you’re inside, you have to identify the traces that aren’t at the expected voltage, trace back to where it fails, and it can literally come from the other side of the motherboard. Let’s say you manage to do that, you then have to identify the reference of the component and replace it; these three successive steps are really out of reach for any "non-electronic expert." For a layperson, it’s truly "all or nothing," where killing it definitively isn’t a concern. If it’s worth getting it repaired, do so.
I recommend YouTube channels like NorthridgeFix or TronicsFix to get an idea of the equipment and skills needed for such work.
Hello,
Thank you for your feedback!
I found the issue (not tested yet). It seems to be related to the T-con board. Here’s an image in a Reddit post that discusses it, and they all have the same problem: https://imgur.com/a/iPrctlF
And here’s the post in question: https://www.reddit.com/r/ultrawidemasterrace/comments/199tnv3/reddit_please_you_are_my_last_hope_my_samsung/
There’s a thermal resistor that remains faulty and that’s what’s causing the issue. Anyway, I already suspected the T-con board.
Once I’ve removed the thermal resistor, I’ll provide an update :)
Have a great evening :)
It's reassuring, these 2 tracks are very accessible. Keep me posted!
Hello, I hope you are doing well, sorry for the delay.
Yes, I just tested by removing a thermal resistor from the T-con board. It had solved the same problem for someone else, but it hasn't changed anything on my end. Note: when we turn off the screen, it tends to restart a second later. And when I plug it in, it turns on immediately.
I am still on the hunt for the problem.
Have a very good day,