How to power a classic PC with a car battery
Here’s the translation:
Alright, I’d like to install a PC in my car (yeah, I know I’m crazy lol) but I have 2 problems with that
1: Is there a power supply that could work like this (I suppose there is because laptops have this kind)
2: Is there a flat screen small enough, around 15 to 20 cm (I’m thinking about a car screen but I’m not sure if the resolution will be good enough under Windows)
And if you have links to any advice or equipment for sale that could help me, it would be nice to share that with me ;)
Thanks, see you soon
1: Is there a power supply that could work like this (I suppose there is because laptops have this kind)
2: Is there a flat screen small enough, around 15 to 20 cm (I’m thinking about a car screen but I’m not sure if the resolution will be good enough under Windows)
And if you have links to any advice or equipment for sale that could help me, it would be nice to share that with me ;)
Thanks, see you soon
51 answers
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Hello
I am an electronics engineer and I confirm that it is relatively easy to adapt a desktop PC to a car, although the interest is rather limited for that you need:
For a PC that consumes between 200 and 250 W:
- Filter and regulate the car's 12 V, which is between 11.5 and 14.3 V, using a series boost converter and definitely not a linear regulator like the 7812 ........ for a load calibrated at 10 A (graphics card, hard drive...)
- Generate the 5 V for USBs, hard drive controller... (2 A) using a linear regulator + ballast
- Generate 3 V for the microprocessor (20 A) using another series converter
- Generate the -12 V with an inverter (500 mA)
You should expect to spend around 200 euros on components for a decent solution (not made in China)
For the screen
A 12-200 V 100 W converter does the job, or choose a monitor that has an external 12 V power supply, and you’re good to go.
This makes it a rather disadvantageous solution compared to a laptop that you can find new or used with a 15 or 17 inches for a price comparable to that of a desktop modified for the car.
I would add that drawing 200 Watts from a 12 V battery is still 16 amperes continuously... which is 4 hours of autonomy on a 75 A/H battery! (diesel car) and quite a load on the alternator. Even with a less power-hungry PC (around 150 W), it’s not very eco-friendly at all!-
Hello Kton,
I’m writing to you because you really seem to know about electronics. As part of an internship, my supervisor asked me to conduct a feasibility study on replacing the mains power with a portable battery in an electronic system. I can't find anything online (or rather I can't seem to do a good precise search), so if you could tell me what to pay attention to or recommend a site, it would definitely help me in my research.
Looking forward to your reply,
Alexandre N. -
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Kton is absolutely right, the best thing to do is to get a laptop given the total cost. I had tested that with 12V batteries like those, but well: https://www.piles-et-plus.fr/batteries-au-plomb-12v/729-batterie-12v-7ah-batterie-plomb-etanche-rechargeable-powersonic
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To use the computer with its screen in the car, buy a 12V-220V converter, available in stores.
Be careful about the power when purchasing. -
As André said, you need to check the power. You won't find a powerful enough converter for your PC, however, there are some for laptops since laptops require less energy.
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You will find 12v/220v converters
at radiospares.fr
See you! -
Hello everyone,
I live in Africa and I found the topic interesting, why?
Because power outages are common, and the autonomy of UPS allows us to calmly shut down our PC while waiting for 1 hour, 3 hours, or sometimes 24 hours for the power to return..
So I throw a challenge to manufacturers or amateur electronics enthusiasts who might be interested in this project:
Indeed, why convert 12V DC to 220V AC when in a tower or a desktop there is only 12V, 5V, and 3V, if I'm not mistaken..
It would be more sensible to create a 12V ATX power supply that converts 12V to 12, 5, and 3 Volts, which would require much less power and the autonomy would be increased.
For info, the autonomy of a UPS is 15 to 20 minutes, while a laptop battery lasts 2.5 hours..
As for the screen, some flat screens operate on 12V, so that’s not an issue.
That’s it
A call to enthusiasts, I think if the product existed it could be easily marketed in Africa or in developing countries where power outages are frequent.. -
ModeratorIt would be wiser to manufacture ATX power supplies powered by 12V from a battery and to replace the internal electronic circuit with a 12V to 5V and 3V converter; it would consume much less energy and increase autonomy.
That's not a bad idea :) But a PC power supply must be capable of providing up to 30A (and perhaps more for recent power supplies ...) and if we assume there is no energy loss, we have UpIp=UsIs (primary/secondary) Ip=(UsIs)/Up=(5*30)/12=12.5A
And that is only for the 5V.
It is certainly possible, I am not an electronics expert either, but that doesn’t mean it won’t consume a lot.
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The urgent is done, the impossible is in progress,
For miracles, please allow for a delay ... -
Thank you for your response Yoan,
but I'm talking about a car battery, for example 25A/H, and it's not because it's marked on the power supply as 30A that it provides that, can you imagine the size of the wires in your tower??
I think your calculations are poorly estimated... and I've heard that this has already been done here in Congo but I don't have the contact..-
Well... I briefly looked into the subject with interest, since I live on a boat and I'm taking advantage of its restoration to centralize navigation and comfort elements (movies, music...) on the PC. It should be noted that at sea, it’s worthwhile to have chosen various devices for their ease of repair, which is less obvious for a laptop.
So I've been working on the topic of "how to power a desktop PC on battery" for a while now.
Indeed, as you said, just because it says 30A or 450W doesn’t mean it consumes that!
My power supply at 220V is 450 Watts and my ammeter at the back of the PC measures only 0.45A, which gives about 100 Watts.
My screen is a Bluesky 15" with an external power supply at 220V/12V which should allow me to connect it directly to the batteries (but I’m thinking of still going through a voltage regulator to avoid spikes at 14V during battery charging).
I thought about using an inverter for the tower, but obviously, converting from 12V to 220V and then back to 12V will certainly lead to losses!
Don't think that an inverter has a 100% efficiency (proof is, it heats up, so power is lost!).
I once saw the consumption plate of a laptop "Acer" that indicated 9A at 19V DC.
I don't know if all laptops are as power-hungry, and I’m well aware that adapting a desktop PC to 12V would require a bit more than a laptop... It remains to weigh our interests and consider all the pros and cons. -
Well, I want to clarify one thing: "and my ammeter on the back of the PC measures 0.45A floating." So, that was measured between the mains and the power supply, right? Of course...
But if you were measuring in the PC itself, where the 5V comes out, you would connect your ammeter in series with...
There you would see that you wouldn't get 450mA ;)
U = R x I
R is constant in this case, SO: if U decreases, I increases, and that's what the PC power supply does... it decreases the voltage, and we can have a greater intensity output...
but in the case of the battery
hmm, I don't think there's much to question; it will consume a lot :)
And yes, just because a power supply says 450 W doesn't mean it will consume that much...
And I remind you that when a power supply says 30 A, like on the 5V output, that is what the power supply can give... if you connect a circuit on 5V that demands more than 30 A, your power supply will heat up...
That's all my opinion on the subject, and I think you could maybe make a switching power supply on battery: battery voltage 12V and output voltage of the switcher 5V, 3.3V, 12V, etc. A switching power supply can be done in a simple way; there are tons of schematics on the internet...
cyb...
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Moderatormoui, we may not constantly run at 30A, but the power supplies must be able to deliver it; I doubt that manufacturers make powerful power supplies just for fun.
And if some mid-range power supplies burn out because the equipment consumes too much, it's clear that we have to go pretty high already. 30A only concerns 5V, but we still need to be able to deliver it.
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The urgent is done, the impossible is in progress,
For miracles, please allow some time ... -
Regarding the PC on the cigarette lighter, I just bought a used mini PC and a flat screen for my boat that are powered by 12V through a 220V/12V rectifier. I was wondering what would happen if I directly connected the 12V from the cigarette lighter instead of going through a converter to make 220V which is then transformed back to 12V. It's a shame to waste energy like that. I know that the 12V from the battery varies between 11.5V and 14V when the alternator charges, but would the PC suffer from that?? If someone has an idea or experience, it would be interesting to know...
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If we use a rectifier and a switching transformer, the 12V would always remain at 12V, as would the 5V and 3V. I power my setup with a solar panel and ALL my equipment is 12V because most devices have a transformer; even my external hard drives run directly on 12V and it works well. But my computer is a laptop and I would really like to have a desktop without a 12V/220V converter. If there’s a way, I would make it myself!!! Flo
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The best option might be to use a 12 or 24 volt PC instead of tinkering... available at NAUTICOM.FR or ANTEOR.COM (search with Google for 12V PC) - Raymond
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Hello, my Sony laptop is powered by 230 V AC from a plug adapter that provides 19.5 Volt DC at 4.7 Amperes. This output charges the battery (Li-ion) at 11.4 V DC. This voltage difference (19.5 and 11.4) is necessary for quickly charging the Li-ion battery. SO, do not connect your car battery or any other lead battery directly to your computer. The Li-ion battery will not discharge and will charge slowly, given that the voltage difference is now smaller.
It is foolish to convert 12.3 Volt DC to 230 V AC, only to then convert it back to 19.5 V DC to charge an 11.5 Volt battery.
Why make it complicated when it can be simple. Best regards, Keramos.-
Hello Keramos and everyone,
What you, Keramos, wrote interests me a lot but drowns me in an ocean of perplexity. You say:
"My Sony laptop is powered by the 230 V AC mains, which goes through an adapter that provides (output) 19.5 Volts DC at 4.7 Amperes. This powers the battery (Li-ion) of 11.5 V DC. This difference in voltage (19.5 and 11.4) is necessary to charge the Li-ion battery quickly. SO, connect your car battery or another lead-acid battery directly to your laptop. The Li-ion battery will not discharge and will charge slowly, since the voltage difference is smaller now.
It is foolish to convert 12.3 Volts DC to 230 V AC, and then convert it back to 19.5 V DC to charge an 11.5 Volt battery. Why make things complicated if we can make them easy."
You are certainly right, but 1000 times sorry, I don't understand anything or rather, your solution frightens me quite a bit!
So I think the best thing is to expose my intentions, even if it goes against your solution, but please be lenient:
I have an ASUS S6F laptop with these specifications:
+19V then a long line ___ with dotted lines ----- underneath, followed by 3.42A and 65W.
I’m going on a road trip to Africa for 2 months, so I am planning to buy a 12v-220v converter with a USB slot because my intention is to simply CHARGE the laptop as well as the small USB peripherals, including the charger for my razor and that of my CANON camera. I plan to charge while I’m driving, unless you tell me that the DC current fluctuations are too variable, and that it’s better to charge the car while it’s stationary.
I think that in this context, a 150W converter for the cigarette lighter should be enough (I know that starting from 300W, it must be connected directly to the battery, and I don’t want that).
Since I’m leaving in a week, I would be very happy to know your answer - (the others' opinions interest me just as much). Thank you!
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Make sure to pay attention to the purchase of the inverter. Ensure that it has the same wattage as your power supply.
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Super Kton, thank you for your participation!
Your message was the cherry on the cake! ------------> Even I wanted to install a PC (a tower) in detached mode in my car!!!
But after reading your message, I’m also opting for a laptop!
Thanks to everyone
Mad-
Hello,
I would like to respond to the questions and comments in this thread, as I too have asked myself the same questions about setting up a PC on my boat (a sailboat, which has low energy autonomy).
- I purchased a small industrial PC that operates with a continuous power supply between 9 and 30v. It is directly powered by the boat's 12v battery. It's a 75Ah lead battery, identical to a car battery. I haven't had a single failure in 3 years (I live on my boat for 4 months a year).
- As for the screen, I found a 14" monitor powered by an external 220v/12v power supply that I did not use. I directly powered the screen using the 12v from the battery. And it works perfectly. The only minor drawback is that when I start the boat's engine (once a day), the instantaneous voltage drop from the battery suspends the screen's activity and makes it appear turned off. I just need to do a power off and on for the screen, and it starts up immediately.
To resolve this last minor issue, I plan to install a large capacitor on the screen's power supply. I am still wondering about the value of this capacitor, since my screen consumes 0.75A at 12v. If anyone has a solution to my question, thank you for your help. -
@gerard777hi
I also live on my sailboat, and based on your explanations, I suspect that your boat has only one battery.
If that's the case, I advise you to add a second one reserved for service by using a charge separator, which would solve your severe voltage drop issue when the starter kicks in, because I’m not sure your screen appreciates the joke in the long run. -
@gerard777Hello,
Can you tell me where to find this type of industrial PC? I'm looking for economical solutions for onboard computing on my boat.
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Hello everyone
I hope I haven't discouraged anyone with my intervention. It would be a shame to miss out on some really good ideas... Technical challenges are always very interesting to tackle. And when they serve a good cause, then what are we waiting for!
On this subject, I would be delighted to contribute to projects that combine electronics and computer science, both in terms of design and implementation, within the limits of my knowledge, of course.
Long live this forum-
Hello KTON
The technical challenges are interesting to tackle. I completely agree with you!
I want to automate my house with limited means but have some bottlenecks in electronics. Perhaps we could discuss this and maybe make some progress... ?
If you wish, you can contact me at my email: erik37@free.fr
See you later! -
Hi everyone,
I came across this forum while searching for how to power my laptop that requires "DC 19v __---- 9.5A". I live in a Chevrolet truck in Chamonix and I'm looking to power this laptop through the battery of my truck without ruining it. I thought about adding a second battery, but how can I produce the required power and how do I recharge this battery? I have very little experience in electricity and I don't want to mess things up!
Thanks everyone for your help. -
Hello,
I am what you would call a senior... not very tech-savvy...
I own a motorhome and a laptop. Until now, I plugged the latter into a 12V to 220V inverter, all the while thinking that it didn't really make sense. If I've understood the discussions on this forum correctly, I can plug my laptop directly into a 12V socket in my motorhome, even though the power supply for this laptop indicates an output voltage of 19V? Please confirm this for me... and clarify (because I didn't quite understand this part) whether there is a need to interpose any electronic device between the 12V socket and the laptop.
I will probably have to make the power cable myself... Where can I find the connector that fits the back of the laptop? It seems a bit special...
Thank you for your informed response...
M.C. -
@verbatim57don't put 12V instead of 19V, you need (like me) a 12V/19V transformer, I bought mine from Medion
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@geoffPersonally, I've been running my laptop (Lenovo S10) directly on the motor battery (12V 95A/h) for a few weeks now after removing the laptop's battery (11V) and it works perfectly. Plus, the laptop's consumption is very low (around 1A/h in economy mode), which won't risk draining the vehicle's battery too quickly...
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Salut, do you know if there are 24 volt DC batteries or cells?? Thank you
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Contributor@ujpWell yes.
Look at the 203 Peugeot: 2 six-volt batteries in series to operate at 12 volts. lol
Had to be done!
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To err is human, to persist is diabolical.
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Hi chi
Yes, there are "batteries" of 6, 12, and 24 volts direct current in various sizes, shapes, and therefore different capacities besides the classic motorcycle - car - truck formats
They can be found in uninterruptible power supplies, pallet trucks, and generally in any application that requires autonomous power .......
I use a few in my work
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Cp_engineering SRL can do it: Research and project for 10,000 euros that allows to build 200 pieces for 100 euros per piece.
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There are only batteries or storage units in direct current; as of today, I do not know of any storage for alternating current.
You will find batteries and storage units with a wide range of voltages from 1.2 V to 48 V. However, the most common voltages are 12 V and 24 V.
So, 12 V batteries exist as well as those used in automobiles, while 24 V is more commonly found in trucks. -
I know that there are converters (12/24V --> 220V) that can produce up to 2000W of power! What I don't know is the difference between sinusoidal current and ordinary current!
Here is the converter:
[URL=https://imageshack.com/][IMG]http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/143/202015hy3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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