Sound issue: crackling with heat
Anonymous user
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greg -
greg -
Hello,
After a few days of technical research and topics on the web, I admit I'm a bit stuck. Here is my problem:
In my car, I have a sound system. (all Pioneer and I'm proud of it :P )
For a few days now, a strange phenomenon has been bothering me. My car stays all day in the sun in the parking lot at work. When I get in at night, it's quite hot inside. The problem is that when it's hot, the sound from the speakers cuts out and returns gradually as the temperature drops, crackling in a rather unbearable way. I want to emphasize that it is the speakers because the subs (connected to an amp) in my trunk are not cut off. It's strange because, afterwards, the sound is fine but crackles when going over bumps, potholes, etc., or during hard braking or sharp turns (steering wheel turns). I don’t have this problem at normal temperatures. The issue doesn't come from the speakers because they crackle in the same way, under the same conditions, when the music is paused. I’ve shaken almost all the cable harnesses to see if that had any effect, but nothing... I also removed the radio from its slot to check the cables and they are in perfect condition.
Any idea?
Thanks in advance ;)
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PC 2
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--
I am a naughty troll!
After a few days of technical research and topics on the web, I admit I'm a bit stuck. Here is my problem:
In my car, I have a sound system. (all Pioneer and I'm proud of it :P )
For a few days now, a strange phenomenon has been bothering me. My car stays all day in the sun in the parking lot at work. When I get in at night, it's quite hot inside. The problem is that when it's hot, the sound from the speakers cuts out and returns gradually as the temperature drops, crackling in a rather unbearable way. I want to emphasize that it is the speakers because the subs (connected to an amp) in my trunk are not cut off. It's strange because, afterwards, the sound is fine but crackles when going over bumps, potholes, etc., or during hard braking or sharp turns (steering wheel turns). I don’t have this problem at normal temperatures. The issue doesn't come from the speakers because they crackle in the same way, under the same conditions, when the music is paused. I’ve shaken almost all the cable harnesses to see if that had any effect, but nothing... I also removed the radio from its slot to check the cables and they are in perfect condition.
Any idea?
Thanks in advance ;)
Configuration: PC 1 :
-AMD Phenom II x4 3.4 GHz
-Gigabyte GTX460 1Go DDR5
-4Go DDR3
-1To HDD
-128 Go SSD
-M-AUDIO Firewire Sound/Audio Card
PC 2
-i5 skylake K series
-Nvidia GTX 960M
-8 Go DDR4
-1To HDD
--
I am a naughty troll!
4 réponses
Thank you for the answers!
As for the shocks, I hadn't thought about static electricity at all. I will ground all the doors properly and check the ground of the trunk amplifier as well as all the other elements mentioned by greg.
The problem with redirecting the air conditioning to the rear of the station is that if the heating is turned on, the radiator will also be heated.
I will look for high airflow 12V PC fans.
--
I am a naughty troll!
As for the shocks, I hadn't thought about static electricity at all. I will ground all the doors properly and check the ground of the trunk amplifier as well as all the other elements mentioned by greg.
The problem with redirecting the air conditioning to the rear of the station is that if the heating is turned on, the radiator will also be heated.
I will look for high airflow 12V PC fans.
--
I am a naughty troll!
Hello
If the heating is turned on, the radiator will also be heated.
Well, yes but no.
The air conditioning has an evaporator inside the vehicle, which looks like a radiator, but the air coming out is at a low temperature (sometimes +4°, which explains why the water vapor condenses on this evaporator and drips through two pipes under the car). It is just after this evaporator that we will draw in fresh, dry air.
(The computer fans, no matter how powerful, would only circulate air at 35/40 degrees in the dashboard).
Then the cold air passes through a real radiator heated by the coolant from the engine cooling system. A valve set according to the vehicle's interior temperature and the requested temperature allows more or less hot liquid to flow into this radiator, which reheats the air and keeps it dry. Between the evaporator and the radiator, we do draw in air at 4-6 degrees Celsius even if we set it to have 30° in the car.
If the heating is turned on, the radiator will also be heated.
Well, yes but no.
The air conditioning has an evaporator inside the vehicle, which looks like a radiator, but the air coming out is at a low temperature (sometimes +4°, which explains why the water vapor condenses on this evaporator and drips through two pipes under the car). It is just after this evaporator that we will draw in fresh, dry air.
(The computer fans, no matter how powerful, would only circulate air at 35/40 degrees in the dashboard).
Then the cold air passes through a real radiator heated by the coolant from the engine cooling system. A valve set according to the vehicle's interior temperature and the requested temperature allows more or less hot liquid to flow into this radiator, which reheats the air and keeps it dry. Between the evaporator and the radiator, we do draw in air at 4-6 degrees Celsius even if we set it to have 30° in the car.
A PDF for the Clio 2 Phase 2:
http://197.14.51.10:81/pmb/MAINTENANCE/CLIOTHALIASYMBOL/MR358CLIO6.pdf
On your car
on page 12 of the PDF, the expansion valve is in the engine compartment B against the bulkhead, blowing cold air D into a distribution box located inside A the passenger compartment.
on page 10 of the PDF, you can see the distribution box with the radiator at the bottom.
There is therefore a quite large volume of cold air in the plastic distributor, through which you can drill the passage for the pipe that will cool the unit. With the air conditioning and heating on, you should be able to verify by hand that you are drilling a cold wall without disassembling the car too much.
With the original fan pushing air through the expansion valve, you shouldn't need an additional fan.
The radiator seems to always be warm; here, the temperature adjustment would be done by a mixing flap for hot/cold air.
http://197.14.51.10:81/pmb/MAINTENANCE/CLIOTHALIASYMBOL/MR358CLIO6.pdf
On your car
on page 12 of the PDF, the expansion valve is in the engine compartment B against the bulkhead, blowing cold air D into a distribution box located inside A the passenger compartment.
on page 10 of the PDF, you can see the distribution box with the radiator at the bottom.
There is therefore a quite large volume of cold air in the plastic distributor, through which you can drill the passage for the pipe that will cool the unit. With the air conditioning and heating on, you should be able to verify by hand that you are drilling a cold wall without disassembling the car too much.
With the original fan pushing air through the expansion valve, you shouldn't need an additional fan.
The radiator seems to always be warm; here, the temperature adjustment would be done by a mixing flap for hot/cold air.
I own a Clio 2 Phase 2, if that helps...
It seems that the radiator hypothesis is confirmed and here is the reason:
-Before starting, I did not put the faceplate of the car radio back on so that it wouldn't turn on.
-After starting, I turned the air conditioning to maximum directed at the windshield and feet because the main air circuit passes below the car radio cavity.
-After a good 5 minutes of "cooling" (from the moment the AC got cold), I put the faceplate back on and miracle! No more issues!
Now, I would like to avoid doing this manipulation at each start-up and am therefore looking for a solution to thermally insulate this section of the dashboard.
Any ideas?
EDIT: Personally, I was thinking of using heat-resistant adhesives found on motorcycles.
I am a naughty troll!
It seems that the radiator hypothesis is confirmed and here is the reason:
-Before starting, I did not put the faceplate of the car radio back on so that it wouldn't turn on.
-After starting, I turned the air conditioning to maximum directed at the windshield and feet because the main air circuit passes below the car radio cavity.
-After a good 5 minutes of "cooling" (from the moment the AC got cold), I put the faceplate back on and miracle! No more issues!
Now, I would like to avoid doing this manipulation at each start-up and am therefore looking for a solution to thermally insulate this section of the dashboard.
Any ideas?
EDIT: Personally, I was thinking of using heat-resistant adhesives found on motorcycles.
I am a naughty troll!
Holes and bumps (static electricity and hot/dry insulation): often grounding of the upper shock absorber shaft by a terminal under the nut. Spring in the wheel shaft that rubs against the center of the central metallic dust cover of the discs or drums, with a bit of grease anyway. Grounding of covers and doors. Poor contact of an original ground (oxidation or slight paint residue). Grounding of the housing of the unit to the vehicle chassis often not done. Loose antenna wire. These are examples.
But unfortunately, I anticipated this during assembly and put solder on each terminal. So they don't move...
After observation, I think it comes from the car radio's radiator, which doesn't have enough space to cool down.