Temperature CPU 70°C ????? Solved

Question

Hello,

I have a Pentium 4 560 (3.6GHz)...

When starting the PC, I notice in the BIOS that the CPU temperature is 52 °C, and when I launch a game like CS Source, the CPU rises to 70 °C...

Yet I have a Cooler Master cooler for LGA775 sockets... My case has 4 fans (one at the front, two for exhaust at the back, and one on top of the case)...

I changed my thermal paste, reassembled the PC piece by piece, but nothing works!!!

Do you find these temperatures high like I do, or are you not too worried about it???

How could I resolve this issue??? Except for adding a water cooling system, of course!

Thanks, and have a nice day.
--
When my PC works, everything works!!! ;-)

peps · Accepted Answer

Hello,
Temperature too high (you are nearing overheating); Before revising your internal architecture (water cooler setup or piezo plate), can you detail the following points?
a) Temperature and humidity of the room where this PC is installed? A dry and cool space is recommended.
b) Is the airflow around the tower optimal? The hot air extracted from the tower should not stagnate.
c) Is the airflow inside the tower functioning perfectly? Slow airflow due to cables and peripheral clutter. I take your mention regarding the disassembly/reassembly of the hardware as an indication that you have ensured the absence of dust or blockage in the vents and fans.

Looping94510 · Answer

-- Looping, the king of little creatures with big engines.......

zoumzoom · Answer

Thank you peps for your contribution....

I think I may have found the problem and I would like you to tell me if what I'm going to say is possible or not?

So actually, I have no dust since everything is new and indeed I have checked everything...

But here's the thing, a month ago I made a setup. That is to say, I cut a plexiglass panel that I engraved with my username and added three blue LEDs to it, all connected to my power supply. I thought about putting a resistor etc.... so on that side everything is fine... However, I detected a false contact on this custom façade... When I tap on it, the LEDs turn on or off..... I have therefore decided to disconnect this setup and here's what I get.

idle temp: 47 °C
full temp: 57/60 °C

Do you think this is correct considering I have a P4 3.6 which apparently seems to run a bit hotter than the others.....

Thanks again for your response!

See you soon on the forum
--
When my PC goes, everything goes!!! ;-)

zoumzoom · Answer

I come to bring a little contradiction, my PC runs despite what I just said, at 52°C on idle and 67° on full... I'm frustrated!!!

What to do, especially knowing that I added a copper cooler!!! I can't imagine if I didn't have that!!!

--
When my PC goes, everything goes!!! ;-)

Nicolas F · Answer

update the BIOS maybe if your motherboard is recent maybe there are errors in interpreting temperatures..

peps · Answer

Hello,
52° in base system and 67° with Counter or something else in class.
You can still gain more, the ideal being 43° at idle and 56° at full throttle.
Since you started PC tuning (plexiglass plate), you need to do it properly.
a) This plexiglass plate is airtight unlike the old cover, which is perforated. It should be drilled near the graphics card and the CPU, and an air extractor should be installed (this would improve the extraction of hot air coming from the back of your graphics card and certain configurations causing turbulence).
b) Look on different PC tuning sites, it is possible to improve the heat dissipation of your power supply unit.
c) Round cables for ATAPI/E-IDE connections obstruct less the flow of cool air than wide cables.
d) Check if your CPU cooler/radiator and the fan are really suitable. Consider adapting a cooler on the graphics card (tests prove a significant temperature difference between the VPU and the back of the card).
NOTE: Ideally, the modification of the PC's environment in the computer room (AC, dehumidifier, access airlock); All reduced to the dimensions of the PC. We modified refrigerated cabinets with the adaptation of heat pumps and dehumidifiers for mini-servers; This would be adaptable to PCs, but the problem would remain direct and constant access to the drives.

zoumzoom · Answer

Hello Peps,Indeed, I made sure there was no dust in my tower... The temperature of the room where the PC is located averages between 20°C and 21°C. And there is no humidity since I use a dehumidifier in this room.Now I noticed that this temperature rise occurs when I close the side panel of my tower... I will follow your advice regarding placing a fan in that spot... I think I will also change the intake fan... it is an 80 mm that I will replace with a 100 mm. As for the IDE cables, they are round cables. My cooler is 100% compatible and its advantages are praised everywhere online...If I run a game with the panel open, I reach a maximum temperature of 62°C and 45°C at idle. As soon as I close this panel, my idle temperature rises to 52°C and 70/72°C under full load.Actually, can you reassure me on one point..... Is it possible that this temperature issue is caused by a failure or malfunction of my processor? Because this CPU was already mounted on a motherboard that eventually burned out!!! So I'm wondering if it didn't get a hit at the same time???? I was told that if the processor had taken a hit, I would experience instability and system crashes.... but nothing related to a heat problem!!! What do you think?And is it also possible that a loose connection, a screw left in the case, or something like that, could be the cause of the problem or not at all?--When my PC works, everything is fine!!! ;-)

peps · Answer

Hello,
The advisors are not the payers. But in general, current CPUs, considering their architecture, are protected by probes.
For now, your CPU is functioning perfectly, even if it has endured a voltage surge above 2.9 volts for 4 milliseconds; it will simply age a little faster.
Just consider replacing it in the near future (more than a year, though).
To determine the exact longevity attributable to your CPU now, it would be necessary to assess the duration of its Vcore powering at voltages above 1.6 volts, continuously, before the motherboard burns out.
NOTE: A temperature probe is integrated into your CPU; set the BIOS to cut the power if the temperature exceeds 72°.

zoumzoom · Answer

Thanks Peps for your response...

Here are the news... I changed my COOLERMASTER cooler for a ZALMAN and now, miracle... lol... CPU temp at idle 45° and 61 max under full load. I consider the problem solved. It seems that the coolermaster isn't very efficient for CPUs over 3.2 GHz. With the zalman, it's all good...

So... I also added a fan as you suggested at the front on the side panel directly blowing onto the CPU.

It seems to be running well!!!

Thanks for your contributions PEPS.

See you soon on the forum
--
When my PC goes, everything goes!!! ;-)

SpyG · Answer

Hi, I bought a PC in parts a while ago, and I had the same problem... my CPU was reaching 70°C
Actually, the problem was that my fan was not properly secured, the new mounts are really crap... so try to secure your fan properly (you have to put some effort into it). Good luck +++

albius · Answer

Hello,

I have a problem quite similar to that of zoumzoom (CPU showing a temperature of ~ 60 - 65°C without heavy applications and easily reaching 70°C with them). I'm seriously considering investing in a new fan. But what type should I choose? (CPU fan, general fan) which brand, and where should I install it?
I read in your previous responses that a fan can be placed somewhere other than the back of the case. Could you provide me with more details?
I've had this problem since I got this hardware, and now I really want to solve it, or at least improve it.
Thank you for your help,

Ps: my configuration is in the profile.

peps · Answer

Mouais ALBIUS,
Everything is there except the main thing: Brand and model of the casing?
By the way, are there not too many system issues regarding AMD+ VIA (KT400) management? It's the configuration that Windows struggles with the most.
Another detail: AMD 2400+, I’m fine with that, but is it Barton or Thoroughbred?
This setup has already been the subject of quite advanced overclocking tests, check out the following site http://www.hardware.fr you will find details on cooling setups suited to your hardware; just don’t forget to specify the storage environment (but generally cool, well-ventilated around the PC and dry).

albius · Answer

Thank you for your reply Peps, but here, "not too many system problems with AMD + VIA (KT400) management? It's the configuration that Windows handles the worst" and "Another detail: AMD 2400+, I'm okay with that, but Barton or Thoroughbred?" is Chinese to me!
Could you clarify a bit more, please?

peps · Answer

Hello,
To find out the CPU of your machine, go to the AMD website and download the CPUID software; it will tell you everything about your CPU. The reason is simple: the BARTON heats up much more easily than the TBR, due to its internal architecture and the composition of its elements.
Now, the components that heat up the most are:
-The CPU
-The power supply
-The VPU is cooled, but the back of the graphics card is not. The temperature difference can reach 12° between the VPU surface and the back.
-The chipsets
-The hard drives
-The motherboard heats up the least; but it still heats up.
The case that was the most widespread at the time in my region (tropical) for cards of this type with this architecture was the i-Cute (2 front intake fans, 2 exhaust fans on the top panel, 1 exhaust fan under the power supply in front of the CPU, 1 side fan on the left panel near the graphics card); everything for maximum heat evacuation.
Starting from this principle, if your case is unsuitable for your architecture (poor intake, poor exhaust), the 38 to 42° during initialization, and the maximum of 53 to 55° under full load are far from being achieved. Well, you’re far from the 9 nm pitch center to center of the 3.6 from Zouzoom, but it’s certainly 13 nm.
For now, I would advise you the following setup:
Replace the heatsink and fan with a more efficient one (but suitable for your CPU), assemble everything with a thermal paste like Blue Arctic (it's more efficient in heat transfer/pumping than the original paste from some heatsinks); remove the left side panel and put a standing fan in front of the opening (so even if you have flat cables, the fresh air circulation inside the case will be intense).

P4T0U · Answer

Are you sure your cooler is making good contact with the processor? If not, just chill with liquid nitrogen :P.

lolo · Answer

Personally, 68 degrees for a P4 3.6 doesn't seem excessive to me under full load.

nanozyp · Answer

My CPU 3.4 is at 69 idle and close to 100 when I run Call of Duty 4 or any other games.........

... · Answer

Vérifiez également que votre ventilateur CPU soit "bien" fixé.

Bowz · Answer

Hi there!
Well, I have a PACKARD BELL portable PC, a small Easynote LJ65, and when I check its temperature at full load, it rises to 80-90°. I'm seriously worried here; I think my processor fan is dead... Before I go ahead and buy a cooling pad, I would like to know if it's worth buying one?

Temperature CPU 70°C ?????

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