Replacement Tweeter JBL E80 Speakers
jazzyB3 Posted messages 3 Status Member -
Everything was fine during the evening, no problem, but the next day I realized that one of the two tweeters was no longer working. I found it quite strange, but I noticed that when I turned up the volume "pretty high" for a few minutes, the second one failed immediately as well.--'
I think the issue might come from my amplifier: it is too powerful (Yamaha AX-497 B) with a version of 220 watts.
It is stated in the technical specifications of the speakers: maximum allowable power of 200 watts.
Anyway, I have no problem with the woofers and the mid-range speaker; everything works properly even at a very high level, the sound remains impressive but without highs; it sounds awful.
I would like to replace both tweeters, but I have no idea which tweeter I should choose (not the same one). Do I need a more powerful one?
For your information, the ones I had (now just one...) were JBL 19mm titanium dome tweeters.
If someone could help me find a tweeter that can occasionally go pretty loud and isn't too expensive, that would be nice :) (as long as the sound remains decent of course).
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11 answers
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Here is a link to tweet: https://www.lamaisonduhautparleur.com/fr/83_davis
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mark your post as "resolved" if you have no more questions! -
There are a few that are pretty good, but there is a little problem to solve: which tweeter will allow occasional high volume without failing? (because if it's just to buy new ones again afterwards...)
Otherwise, thanks for the link ;) and I also found this one ( https://www.public-adress.fr ) but it's too hard to choose, I've never replaced anything in a speaker.
Specifications JBL E80
Recommended maximum amplification power: 200 W
Power handling (Continuous/Pulse): 100 W / 400 W
Nominal impedance: 8 ohms
Sensitivity (2.83 V/1m): 91dB
Frequency response (-3 dB): 38 Hz - 20 kHz
Crossover frequencies: 300 Hz, 4000 Hz
High-frequency driver: Laminated Titanium dome 19 mm
Midrange driver: 100 mm PolyPlas
Low-frequency driver: 2 x 170 mm PolyPlas
Magnetic shielding on each driver
Baffle board: Low diffraction, IsoPower
Port: FreeFlow flared
Filter: Straight-Line Signal Path (SSP)
Terminal: Gold-plated, bi-wiring possible
Dimensions (H x W x D): 927 x 213 x 349 mm
Unit weight: 19.1 kg-
Amplifier power/speakers report
JBL is one of the few brands that recommend in their brochures the following information: "warning insufficient power"
The mistake for decades has been to recommend an amplifier with less power than the speakers.
When you push the volume on an amplifier that is less powerful than the speakers, the risk of distortion is significant, with the amplifier generating a pseudo-square signal that goes to the most sensitive component of the speaker, the tweeter.
The electric shock is inevitable.
Furthermore, a more powerful amplifier than the speakers will not struggle, and will easily respond to the pumping effect of low frequencies.
In the end, to achieve good bass, a good power source is essential. Beware of long runs... (stabilizing inverter recommended)
On the cabling side, a good 2.5mm² cable at a maximum of €25 per meter will be perfect (Cordial, Sommer, Klötz, Real Câble, Monster).
Do not be fooled by cable sellers offering overpriced options that can go up to €200 per meter or more, it is unjustified and adds nothing to the sound. In a professional recording studio, a true audio laboratory, we never use cables costing over €50 per meter, whether for signal or power supply to the transducers.
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There are a few that are quite good, but there is a small problem to solve: which tweeter will allow us to go occasionally very loud without breaking. (Because if it's just to buy more afterwards...)
Otherwise, thanks for the link ;) and I also found this one ( https://www.public-adress.fr ) but it's too hard to choose, I have never replaced anything on a speaker.
JBL E80 Specifications
Recommended maximum amplification power: 200 W
Power handling (Continuous/Pulse): 100 W / 400 W
Nominal impedance: 8 ohms
Sensitivity (2.83 V/1m): 91dB
Frequency response (-3 dB): 38 Hz - 20 kHz
Crossover frequency(ies): 300 Hz, 4000 Hz
High-frequency driver: Laminated Titanium Dome 19 mm
Midrange driver: 100 mm PolyPlas
Low-frequency driver: 2 x 170 mm PolyPlas
Magnetic shielding on each driver
Baffle: Low diffraction, IsoPower
Port: FreeFlow flared
Filter: Straight-Line Signal Path (SSP)
Binding posts: Gold-plated, bi-wiring possible
Dimensions (H x W x D): 927 x 213 x 349 mm
Unit weight: 19.1 kg -
There are a few that are pretty good, but there's a small problem to solve: which tweeter will allow for occasional loud use without failure? (because if I have to replace them again later...)
Otherwise, thanks for the link ;) and I also found this one ( https://www.public-adress.fr ) but it's too hard to choose, I've never replaced anything in a speaker.
JBL E80 Specifications
Recommended maximum amplification power: 200 W
Continuous/Peak power handling: 100 W / 400 W
Nominal impedance: 8 ohms
Sensitivity (2.83 V/1m): 91dB
Frequency response (-3 dB): 38 Hz - 20 kHz
Crossover frequency(ies): 300 Hz, 4000 Hz
High-frequency driver: 19 mm Laminated Titanium Dome
Midrange driver: 100 mm PolyPlas
Low-frequency drivers: 2 x 170 mm PolyPlas
Magnetic shielding on each driver
Planar baffle: Low diffraction, IsoPower
Port: FreeFlow flared
Filter: Straight-Line Signal Path (SSP)
Terminal: Gold-plated, bi-wiring possible
Dimensions (H x W x D): 927 x 213 x 349 mm
Unit weight: 19.1 kg -
sorry for the triple post, there was a small problem with the connection
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Hello,
Unfortunately, I don't have a solution to propose for replacing your tweeters, other than to do your best to find the same ones as the originals; this will prevent you from facing any potential imbalance in the speakers' sound response.
Have you tried contacting JBL or the distributor in France?
As for the cause of this blowout, it is not due to a power overload from the amplifier, which seems to me to be the bare minimum to power this type of column.
The E80s are excellent speakers, balanced and able to play very loud without any risk to the drivers, but they require an amplifier that is very generous in current to function at their full potential, meaning to achieve bass even at low volume and maintain that sound quality at high volume without damaging the drivers.
However, the power of an amplifier has almost nothing to do with its ability to deliver current and drive speakers, and it should be noted that the amount of watts is primarily a marketing argument and has absolutely no value for evaluating REAL power. An amplifier that can deliver high power but little current will struggle to control the cones of column speakers with multiple drivers like these JBLs (AT HIGH LISTENING LEVELS), and this is the case with the Yamaha, which is sufficient at low to medium levels but will not be able to deliver enough current if you turn up the volume a bit.
This is also true for all amplifiers in this price range that are not designed to work really well with speakers of more than 2 drivers (At low levels it will still work, but as soon as the volume increases, the amplifier will no longer be able to deliver the necessary current, creating a lot of distortion that is very damaging to the drivers, especially the tweeters which are the most sensitive).
In summary: With this amplifier (which is of good quality for its price), you should not expect to power multi-driver columns at high levels, especially with music heavy in bass and treble, and even more so if you're used to pushing the tone settings or using the loudness function. So I advise you to do your best to find the original tweeters, to avoid high levels especially under those previous conditions, and ideally to invest when you can in a more suitable amplifier like a Harman HK980, a large NAD mini C352 or something else, but do your research first on the current capacity...
NB1: My remarks regarding the amplifier apply to high-level listening, but also beware of the source, which can be the cause of harmful distortion at high volume (very compressed mp3s, poor sound card...). In this case, the amplifier is not to blame, but this kind of distortion can already be heard at low levels.
NB2: I have these E80s with the HK980. Fantastic. With a NAD C315, there’s a lack of bass at low levels and a muddled sound when I turned up the volume; with the C352, it's perfect, but I preferred the Harman to go with the CD player of the same brand.
Sorry for the moralizing tone, but I think your speakers are really worth paying attention to these somewhat technical notions to enjoy them fully and avoid future issues.
Musically -
It's true, but it would be really stupid to buy a new amp when this one is less than a year old... Moreover, it delivers superb sound and the settings are quite varied. The bass and treble adjustments are noticeable, even at very low levels!
As for sound quality, it is perfect at low and medium levels, but at high levels, distortion is noticeable, so I need to reduce the intensity of the bass or treble to maintain good sound without distortion.
I’ve thought about the equipment and cables I have; I think the problem may come from the cables used: they are just simple cables bought at a supermarket for multifunction speakers. I connect these to all the speakers I own, but I’m not sure if the issue could stem from that (the amp heats up a lot at high levels).
Otherwise, the source of the sound comes from my computer, which cost me over 1000 euros for the tower, and it's been 3 years. I don't think the problem should come from there, although the sound output is often in MP3 quality and rarely in AAC. Could converting MP3 to AAC also solve the problem?
I replaced the JBL E80 tweeters with tweeters from the KEF C series (I've had these speakers for over 15 years) and used a banana plug cable. The KEF tweeter is much larger than the JBL one, and it’s also 25mm. The sound coming from the speakers remains the same, and at high levels, the tweeter holds up, and the speaker has no distortion. I will need to buy new tweeters anyway; I prefer to keep the KEF speakers aside.
So, I wouldn't like to spend on a new amp given that I already need to buy tweeters.
Now my question is: could I set the sound to a fairly high level by adjusting the treble and bass while avoiding distortion and damage?
Even though there is a lack of bass, that's not an issue; I have a JBL ES250P subwoofer. -
I think that if you no longer boost the high-level settings, you should limit the risks, the rule being that if the sound is distorted in the bass or treble, then there is danger even with already adjusted settings.
This amplifier has a loudness function, and I encourage you to use only this feature as it automatically adjusts to the listening level.
As for the cables, here is my advice:
Invest in quality cable like Monster Xphp if possible, or at least in 2.5 mm² minimum. You will get better sound quality and improved definition of the bass and treble.
If you have the budget, get double the length and connect the amplifier to the speakers using bi-wiring (one cable for the lower terminal, another for the upper one, remove the straps, and at the amplifier, activate speaker A+B). Speaker B powers, for example, the lower terminal of the left and right speakers, while Speaker A handles the upper terminals. This will further enhance the definition of the bass and treble.
Well-encoded MP3s (at least 128 kbps) do not create distortion. AAC can provide equivalent quality at 96 kbps, which saves space on the HDD, but be careful with compatibility with certain portable players.
There is no point in converting MP3s to AAC because you are compressing an already compressed file, and the drop in sound quality becomes significant.
There you go. -
Thank you very much ;) I think that with your advice, I'll be able to learn a bit more about this and about my "future" purchases.
Until now, I didn't know there was a difference between output speaker A and B.
A big thank you to you ;) -
Hello,
I have exactly the same problem as you, I was wondering if you managed to find replacement tweeters?
If so, where?
Thanks a lot!! -
Hello
to reply to you, I found some tweeters of all kinds on this site: https://www.public-adress.fr
I have a problem regarding the tweeters and I think you’ll be thinking about it too. I believe I can unscrew and remove everything around the tweeter (the part that fixes it to a speaker) in order to retrieve the tweeter itself and then mount it on my speaker.
Since my last message, I’ve understood a lot of things regarding the connectivity of my amp and my speakers. It wasn’t mentioned in the manuals....
For example, if I want to turn up the volume quite a bit without causing damage, I have to connect the speakers to the B outputs of the amp and then adjust the sound with the "loudness" setting on my amp.
I’ll leave you my MSN address if you have any other problems or questions:
monoumo@hotmail.com (not a very nice MSN address, I know :)
Have a good evening.-
Your tweeters have burned out because your speakers are not designed for parties with friends. What killed your tweeters is both an excess of power and, above all, the fact that this excess lasted too long. The heat produced in the voice coil builds up, it can no longer dissipate, and after a while, the insulation of the wire in the coil melts, and then the turns short-circuit and everything burns.....
The solution?
Use a tweeter designed for this kind of use, like those on this page
https://www.public-adress.fr
and use a resistor bridge or a constant impedance attenuator to adjust the level of the highs.
In your JBL E80, you will need to do some modifications to remove the original tweeter, which will burn out as many times as you replace it, to make room for a serious tweeter. For the JBL E80, I would rather recommend this model:
https://www.public-adress.fr
You will never have to replace it again.
What do we say?
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